Thursday 27th January 2011 My first day back on the path in 2011. It has been a couple of months since I was last here, and so I am excited at getting going again. I travelled down to Newport from London. We were delayed around 40 minutes just before going through the Severn Tunnel and so I missed my onward connection by train to Caldicot. Without any prompting or fuss, "Arriva Trains" in conjunction with "First Great Western" put me in a cab, free of charge, to take me to Caldicot. Standard procedure I gather, and I was very impressed. From there, I set out from Caldicot station along a quiet lane. For the first time ever on this walk I put on my i-Pod and started dancing along the road heading towards Redwick where I was going to stay the night. After a while I sensed there was something behind me and indeed there was. A car with two laughing occupants… laughing at the fact that I was blocking their progress and dancing badly to go with it! I unplugged my music and had a quick chat with them. I waved them off with the first donation of this leg in my donation box! I spent the rest of the afternoon walking the five miles or so along a raised flood defence, with the Bristol Channel on my left and the River Severn powering its way through it. Oyster catchers, sunny intervals and a chilly breeze accompanied me to the “Brick House” B&B and dinner at “The Rose Inn”.

Friday 28th January 2011 Weather: bright and sunny with a bracing north-easterly wind. I continued along the Bristol Channel and at one point had to turn round at a nature reserve as there was no permitted path through it. Had to take a couple of inland detours because there wasn't any access to the water’s edge. The pub I hoped to stop at for a bowl of soup at lunchtime had closed down, so I plodded on with an empty stomach reaching the RSPB reserve at Newport Wetlands where I was accompanied up to the café by a couple of well-wishers who also kindly made donations. After lunch (yes – I got my soup after all and had the chance to stock up on some snacks!!!) I was joined by another supporter and keen photographer called Martyn who walked with me for a mile or so. I had wanted to use the transporter bridge across the River Usk but it was closed! So I took an upstream detour and crossed the river using the A48 road bridge. Throughout the late afternoon, I began to experience the friendliness and generous support of the locals. Cars were stopping to make a donation. One person even took the trouble to turn round and stop by me to put some money in my collection box. Very, very heart-warming. After dark I stumbled upon “The Waterloo Hotel & Bistro” – what an amazing place. I spent a wonderful evening in their bustling bar and restaurant, listening to a repertoire of songs radiating from the piano at the hands of Stephen Lancefield. A real pleasure.

Saturday 29th January 2011 Weather cold, with temperatures hovering around freezing. I headed off along roads and then risked a path which I feared might lead to a dead-end and a lengthy double back. On my way down, I stopped and chatted to a local who assured me that the path was clear right along the water’s edge: and he was right. Great news. Later in the afternoon, I followed the left bank of the Rhymney River in the hope that there was a way off the bank and away from the river. The only obvious exit, via a gate in a high wire fence was locked. Hmmm! I followed an unofficial path which led me on round the narrowing river bank and it took me through a tiny gap in a hedge and over a water filled ditch onto the verge of a road. My escape route! Then I tried to find a way over “scrubland” at the rear of the Tesco supermarket but was foiled by another water obstacle, too wide to get across. I ducked and dived my way along the verges of various roads towards Cardiff centre and was turned away at the docks in an attempt to find a way through. Well after dark I found a place to stay.

Sunday 30th January 2011 A sunny and chilly day. Headed further into Cardiff City Centre and was treated to a free tour of the simply incredible Millennium Stadium. Then down to the coast and around the impressive Cardiff Bay area. According to my Ordnance Survey map, I spent a good deal of the afternoon walking on water! I arrived in Penarth and had a look at the pier, collected donations and got advice as to where I should head for accommodation.

Monday 31st January 2011 Great to have cars stopping to give me donations. I was shown round the RNLI station at Penarth by Ian Mock and Ben Reynolds, members of the inshore lifeboat crew. Most of their call outs are to rescue people caught out by the fast and rising tides along the coast here. I had to retrace my steps on a couple of occasions due to blocked footpaths and decided to stay slightly inland for the rest of the afternoon to avoid any further dead-ends. In the evening, past Barry Island, I headed up to the perimeter of Cardiff airport and stayed at a hotel there. Yikes! They have a captive market and boy oh boy, I was captured! My accommodation budget took a knock!

Tuesday 1st February 2011 Weather was overcast initially but became clear and sunny later. Quite mild. Walked from Cardiff airport back down to the coast and on to Llantwit Major. Thankfully the path was clear right the way along the coast. Lovely! It curved round the perimeter of the power station at Breaksea Point. I stopped and chatted to a few people, and we all agreed there was a hint of spring in the air. Indeed, I had forty winks on a grass ledge next to a cliff, enjoying a hint of warmth from the sun on my face. I stayed the night in the Oast House B&B, part of the White Lion in Llantwit Major.

Wednesday 2nd February 2011 I was joined at breakfast by Cliff Edge, a wonderful name that befits this great character. Cliff offered to help rally support and publicity for my walk along this stretch of the Welsh coast, and I am grateful to him for his efforts on my behalf. After our chat, I headed out into rain and gales. Rucksack rain cover on, hood up and on along the coast to Ogmore-by-Sea. In the evening I was collected by Norma Morgan, who works in the health service specialising in dementia support, and taken to their home in Bridgend for the night for a delicious dinner and a hot shower followed by an early night. Bliss. In the morning her husband Andrew kindly drove me to the station so I could catch the train back to London. Two weeks of work beckoned to top up the walking kitty.

I will resume my walk on Monday 21st February from Ogmore-by-Sea for two more weeks. Come and join me!

No walking this month. 

Tuesday 16th November 2010
Stayed the night with Thirle and Peter in Taunton.  Henry Haslam collected me in the morning and together we drove to Minehead where I last left off.  From there we walked past Dunster close to the West Somerset Railway, past Blue Anchor to Watchet.  Just before Watchet we ate our lunch in a field enjoying the sunshine.  Afterwards, we tried to continue along the coast through a caravan park but had to turn back as it was a dead end.  After which, Henry had to turn back  for Watchet to catch a bus into Minehead to collect his car.  I continued along busy roads including the A39, pressing myself into the hedges in front of oncoming traffic.  With the ease of navigation and by-the-sea convenience of the South West Coast Path behind me, I was back in the nitty-gritty-find-your-own-way regime!  Outside East Quantoxhead I left the perils of the A39 and cut my way along paths that crossed fields.  Dusk fell. I had my first uncomfortable encounter with livestock!  A herd of about 100 cows decided I was to be given a close and compressed escort across their field in
the semi-darkness.  They formed a tight group around me, pressing themselves against me. Then one excited animal starting bucking, its hooves a little too close to my face for comfort.  I 'clacked' my metal walking poles together and shouted to disperse them.  Job done.  They scattered but kept trying to re-form their protective sandwich with me as the filling. A “clack clack” of my walking poles and a “Hiii…Hiii” kept them back far enough for me to reach the stile.  From there, in complete darkness, I arrived back on the A39 to walk the last few hundred metres into the village of “Kilve”.  With the local “rush hour” commute in full swing, I put on not one… but two head torches:  a white light facing
forwards (my head light) and a red light facing backwards (my rear light)!  It did the job, and I arrived, un-flattened, at the Hood Arms for the evening.

Wednesday 17th November 2010
With a free picnic lunch and a generous donation, I left Kilve and headed towards Cannington.  Heavy rain and strong winds accompanied me until late in the afternoon.  Level paths to Hinkley Point power stations.  Met an environmental consultant doing a survey of the local bird population in preparation for the construction of a second nuclear power station.  Had lunch overlooking the beach, sitting on a low wall, in the pouring rain, but kept perfectly dry and comfortable in my Paramo clothing. Went up to the mouth of the River Parrett where I had tea and biscuits in a bird hide built on stilts.  Then followed the River Parrett Trail.  Eventually reached The Kings Head in Cannington after dark.

Thursday 18th November 2010
Bright day with a couple of very light showers.  Bought a card for my mother and sent it off in good time for her 85th birthday.  She is suffering from Alzheimer’s and a huge motivation for my walk.  Headed across fields to Bridgwater.  Finally crossed over the River Parrett.  Celebration! Then along the pavement of the A38 for a few miles before taking a “Public Right of Way” across fields.  But all the gates were locked so careful
climb-overs required.  Spent most of the day heading back down the River Parrett.  Went through a herd of cows without any problems.  Hooray!  I had set my sights on reaching Burnham-on-Sea, but it was now dark and my body told me it would be three miles too far.  So I found some accommodation in Highbridge.  
 
Friday 19th November 2010
Weather was sunny with a bit of cloud.  Walked from Highbridge along the Huntspill River to the coast, then along the beach, past Burnham-on-Sea and up to the headland of Brean Down.  Then problems with finding an accessible crossing point across the River Axe.  Finally with darkness fallen and after an hour of plodding along a country road, I caught a passing bus into Weston-super-Mare to catch a train to Taunton for the week-end.  I will resume where I left off on Monday.

Monday 22nd November 2010
Train from Taunton to WSM.  Then a bus back to my last point.  Easy walk on paths, roads and beaches into WSM.  Stayed in WSM over night.

Tuesday 23rd November 2010
From West-Super-Mare to Clevedon.  A day of beaches, blocked off public footpaths and lanes.  Decided to stay inland to avoid more blocked paths and dead-ends.  Still forced to climb over gates and fences and scramble through hedges because “public footpaths” had been blocked off by landowners.  More close up interest from cattle and I am developing my cattle “shooing” skills. 
Arriving in Clevedon, I found accommodation at The Moon and Sixpence. 
 
Wednesday 24th November 2010
Telephone interview with Emma Britton at BBC
Somerset. The two Severn bridges are looming… my crossing point into Wales tomorrow.  Through Portishead and into Avonmouth.  Collected by Philippa’s sister Emma and stayed the night with her and Elaine just outside Bristol.

Thursday 25th November 2010
A momentous day.  In bright sunshine and a stiff breeze, I was accompanied by Helen and Kate from the South & West Wales Alzheimer’s Society based in Cardiff across the M48 road bridge into Wales.  I am so grateful to them for their wonderful company and support today, and in the weeks to come.  Once in Wales, I made my way down to Caldicot from where Emma collected me and along with Elaine they put me up for another night in Bristol.  The following morning I returned to London to work up until Christmas. I will resume the walk in the New Year!

Tuesday 26th October 2010
Back down to Shafstboro Farm in Lee Bay to resume my walk after an enforced rest.  Dinner with Margaret and her family.  Weather was initially wet and windy, although the wind abated later in the day along with
the rain.  I set off in anticipation of the day ahead, feeling fit once more following the weeks of physiotherapy and osteopathy.  Arriving in Ilfracombe, I
waited in “Dolly’s Café” for the arrival of Colin Wakefield and Rowena Perkins from Furry Feet tv who produce the British Coast Guide.  In support of my Walk, they had generously offered to come down and make a short video about my progress so far, and provide me with a video camera so I could have a go at recording a video diary.  After an interview on the sea front, I was sent on my way up a steep and winding uphill path whilst they filmed me.  A few miles further along the coast I rounded the point into Hele Bay and there they were with their camera filming my day’s progress! I am so grateful to them and to Furry Feet tv for their incredible generosity.  As darkness fell, I got a kind and concerned call from my hosts John and Penny James at Mellstock House B&B in Combe Martin to check I was ok.  I spent the night in a palatial suite and a bed I could easily have got lost in.  Complete luxury.

Wednesday 27th October 2010
Sunny day.  Walked from Combe Martin via Little Hangman and Great Hangman to Lynton.  A particularly beautiful and wooded section of coastline basking in glorious autumn sunlight.  Wood Bay, Heddon Mouth and the incredible Valley of the Rocks.  I had no idea this stretch of coastline had these gems.

Thursday 28th October 2010
Lynton to Porlock Weir.  Sunny, mild and some showers.  More beautiful
woodland scenery, carriage paths along with some strenuous ups and downs.  

Friday 29th October 2010
I was joined by Reverend Ben for the final day of this South West Coast Path leg of the Walk.  We ate our picnic lunch in sunny weather and rounded the coast into Minehead at the end of this 630 mile National Trail. I embraced the sculpture which marks the finish (or start) of the longest National Trail in the UK, the equivalent of walking from sea level up to the summit of Mount Everest and back down again… twice!  Only another few thousand miles to go!  The magnificent commemorative marker was erected in 2001 and represents a pair of hands holding a map.  Sculpted by Owen Cunningham and designed by a local art student called Sarah Ward, it was a wonderful symbol to behold.  Ben and I celebrated with a cream tea!

Thursday 1st September 2010
Easy day into Padstow, and then inland to stay at Woodlands Country House for my 'luxury birthday treat', owned by wonderful hosts, Hugo and Pippa Woolley.  A beautiful suite complete with four poster bed!  Dinner at the most incredible restaurant in Padstow (this one, by the way, was not owned by Mr Stein!). I have been completely spoilt.  Enjoy it while it lasts!

Tuesday 7th September 2010
I was joined by Philippa’s nephew Daniel who recently completed his university degree and having the summer off before starting to work.  It was a pleasure to have him along.  We left Trevone and set off for Padstow and despite the forecast, the day was turning out to be bright and sunny.  Arriving in Padstow we met up with my friends Clive and Liz Halls who were on holiday.  Whilst they looked after our rucksacks, we visited Dom Boothroyd at the National Lobster Hatchery.  Dom explained to us the incredible work they do in rearing young lobsters in their thousands before divers place them by hand in suitable sites along the local Cornish coast. Their work is the most likely reason for a resurgence in the lobster population in this area.  I also interviewed the harbour master Rob Atkinson and the coxswain of the lifeboat, Ian Tarby.  Both fascinating people. We enjoyed a free ferry ride across the Camel Estuary and walked on along the coast to the house where Liz and Clive were staying with another couple of families, for a cup of tea.  Then onwards to Polzeath where Clive picked us up and drove us inland to the village of St. Minver.  We were staying in a beautiful cottage owned by another friend, Ian Hughes, who had left us a key to use whilst he was away.  He even left a tab behind the bar at “The  Fourways Inn” just opposite for our dinner.  Amazing generosity! 
 
Wednesday 8th September 2010
After our lovely stay in St. Minver, we returned to Polzeath and enjoyed a 'surfer’s breakfast' and then continued round to Port Isaac, home of "Doc Martin".  The filming of this TV series in the village has put Port Isaac even more firmly on the tourist map.  One gift shop was offering a pair of Doc Martin’s socks in a tin!  We had a rowdy night in The Crow’s Nest where the staff raised a collection for Alzheimer’s Society and I was able to give a potted account of my walk-so-far to the locals.  A great evening!

Thursday 9th September 2010
The great weather continues.  Daniel’s last day.  Port Isaac to Tintagel.  A few steep sections.  Picnic lunch and then Daniel departed.  Sad to see him go.  I have got used to having walking companions over the past couple of weeks.  “On my own… once again..!” Reached Tintagel but the bridge across to the island was already closed.  Inland walk to my B&B.  

Friday 10th September 2010
BBC radio interview at 6.45 am this morning.  Walked from Tintagel to Crackington Haven.  First rain in ages and very windy.  Stayed in a lovely B&B in dramatic scenery surrounded by towering cliffs.

Saturday 11th September 2010
Had an inland walk of a couple of miles and back again to collect mail from the local post office.  Then ups and downs in fine weather and donations along the way.  Some serious steps cut into the side of the valley.  Met a lady called “Carol” who guided me into Bude.  Was dying for a curry but was turned away by two busy restaurants but found a third, quite by chance, tucked away up a flight of stairs off a side road!  Food was good.

Sunday 12th September 2010
Again, the weather has been glorious.  Walked from Bude to Morwenstow.  Lots of ascent and descent.  Lots of donations including one from a family who’s parents on both sides were suffering from Alzheimer’s. In the evening I negotiated my way through fields, woods, churchyards and farmyards to the Bush Inn for dinner.  Met a couple in a car who were completely lost and asked me for directions.  I think I sent them off in completely the wrong direction.  Sorry!

Monday 13th September 2010
Overcast with rain and strong winds.  Crossed the county border from Cornwall back into Devon. Down with the Cornish flag and hoisted the Devonian flag which fluttered in the breeze attached to my rucksack.  Sad to say goodbye to Cornwall.  What an incredibly beautiful county and coastline.  Thank you for having me!  At Hartland Point I finished my northerly course, beared away from the Atlantic and turned east towards the Bristol Channel.

Tuesday 14th September 2010
Strong gales, fog and torrential rain.  Walked from near Hartland Point to Clovelly.  What a picture postcard place.  No traffic down its cobbled streets so all shop produce dragged down the hill on sleds!  Not a good day… Early on I leant over to have a closer look at a hairy caterpillar and something went "ping" in my back.  After a cream tea in Clovelly sheltering from the rain I made it to “The Old Police House” B&B just inland.  I was in a fair amount of pain and took pain killers to help me sleep.

Wednesday 15th September 2010
Could barely move this morning and in considerable pain due to my back.  Managed to get an appointment with an osteopath in Bideford called Philip Corbin and got a lift over to see him.  I was in expert hands and after treating me, he assured me that whilst I would continue to be in pain for a while, the slipped disc was back in place and I could continue to walk in a couple of days… but…and it was a significant ‘but’… I was not allowed to carry Big Bertha (that’s the name I have given my enormous rucksack by the way).  Enter “Luggage  Transfers”.  They saved me.  Each morning, until my back is better, I will put all my kit into my large stuff sack and they will collect it from my digs and transfer it to my next place of accommodation.  Brilliant.  All I need to carry in an almost empty Big Bertha is a picnic lunch and a few essential pieces of kit.  No tent, no sleeping bag, no roll mat, no cooking kit, no food, and not to mention all the other paraphernalia which I am carrying on my walk.  Great news!  I rested for the remainder of the day.

Thursday 16th September 2010
My back felt a little better this morning but as predicted, still very painful.  I wanted to keep moving on, so rang Ian Corbin for re-assurance and permission to walk today, which I got, although a diet of ibuprofen was required.  Off I hobbled with a virtually empty rucksack on my back – Big Bertha was also on a diet today.  Spent a chunk of the day walking in a wooded section of the path.  Got round into Westward Ho!  Stayed in the most amazing room a “Penkenna House”. Its total square footage was greater than that of my old cottage!  It also happened to have one of the largest and most comfortable mattresses I have ever had the pleasure of sleeping on.

Friday 17th September 2010
A lovely sunny day.  Woke up in quite considerable pain though.  Called Philip Corbin to compare notes and realised that I would be walking past his clinic in Bideford later that day.  Once I got walking that morning, as he predicted, my back loosened up a little.  At lunchtime I stepped into his treatment room and he checked me over.  He assured me that the bones were fine, and that the pain was being caused by the subsequent inflammation of muscles and nerves etc…  More ibuprofen required.  But a huge thank you to Philip Corbin for treating me so professionally and in true charitable spirit…  I spent the rest of the day walking along the Taw River into Barnstaple where I stayed the night.  But my injuries were not over.  

Saturday 18th September 2010
I have walked over 30 miles on hard flat ground including along the Taw and Torridge rivers and started to develop acute pain in my left leg and shin.  I think this is because my walking “gait” has changed due to the pain in my back and it is causing these additional problems.  Still taking plenty of ibuprofen.  Arrived in Croyde and had a hazy, if delightful evening with friends in a local pub, and even got lost on my way back to the B&B.

Sunday 19th September 2010
Had the pleasure of my friend Carole’s company on a section of the path today before she headed off after a week-end of surfing.  My leg by now was acutely painful and I had to strap it tightly for support to get me to my lodging in Lee Bay near Ilfracombe.  I was collected from Lee Bay by my host Margaret of Shaftsboro’ Farm B&B.  That evening I rang another specialist in my health-preservation armoury – Raf – who knows all about leg problems and how to treat them.  What he told me was what I did not want to hear.  Most significant was that I had to stop walking and rest for a while, otherwise I could create longer-term problems in my leg which, in effect, could seriously jeopardise the rest of the Walk.  Not happy.  Not happy at all.  But Raf knows his stuff, and I am grateful to him for his wise and sound advice.  I am only 45 miles away from completing the South
West Coast Path leg of this Walk.  I can taste the clotted cream, scone and jam that await me in Minehead.  But it will still be there in a few weeks time.

Monday 20th September 2010
I woke up hoping that my leg had made a miraculous recovery.  Of course it hadn’t.  Margaret very kindly drove me to Barnstaple to catch a train back to London, where my course of various back and leg treatments would continue.  I will be back!

Saturday 14th August 2010  Travelled back down to Falmouth last night and arrived during a wonderful fireworks display.  Stayed at Chelsea House" where the lovely 'Donna' donated a free night's accommodation.  Bumped into Peter, an old school friend on the beach!  We last saw each other when we were 17.  He is married now with two children.  Stumbled across the Helford Regatta at Helford Passage.  What a beautiful place and lively community.  They announced my arrival on the pa system and donations came flooding in.  Rowing/running races, prize giving and plenty of beer!  Not a bad first day back!  

Sunday 15th August 2010 (Helford to Coverack - 13 miles)  A hard day, as ever.  Weather was sunny with a cool breeze.  The Helford River is lovely, and the coast along it is full of beautiful coves and beaches.  Met some lovely people and received more generous donations.  As I was having a mid-afternoon energy low-point I turned a coastal corner and there was a cream tea cafe in an old lifeboat station!  Brilliant news!  The owner kindly fixed me up with a B&B for the evening. 

Monday 16th August 2010  (Coverack to Lizard - 10.6 miles) A misty start but turned into a fine day - completely the opposite of what had been forecast.  Lizard lighthouse was in full song.  Today was going to be the last day for a while when I was going to be carrying my huge rucksack and my camping kit.  A lovely couple called Julian and Tricia had read about my walk and had offered to support me along this stretch of the coast.  They collected me in the evening and drove me to their delightful home in Newlyn - the first of  seven nights that they hosted me.

Tuesday 17th August 2010 (Lizard to Church Cove) A misty start but turned into a fine day - completely the opposite of what had been forecast.  Lizard lighthouse was in full song.  Today was going to be the last day for a while when I was going to be carrying my huge rucksack and my camping kit.  A lovely couple called Julian and Tricia had read about my walk and had offered to support me along this stretch of the coast.  They collected me in the evening and drove me to their delightful home in Newlyn - the first of seven nights that they hosted me.

Wednesday 18th August 2010 (Church Cove to Marazion) Bliss!  No heavy rucksack.  Tricia and Julian have kindly lent me a small daysack to hold my waterproofs and lunch.  I feel like I am floating on air. 
Whizzed along the coast.  No more plodding up the steep sections.  Now I am flying!  Well, sort of.  Lovely to see St Michael's Mount.  

Thursday 19th August 2010 From Penzance to the Minack Theatre via Mousehole.  Wet and windy!  A glorious section of coastline with incredible sandy coves.

Wednesday 25th August 2010 From the Minack Theatre to Zennor.  Gales and rain!  Saw seals.  One armed lobsters for dinner (purchased for a discount from the local fishermen!).

Thursday 26th August 2010 Dry and cloudy.  Zennor to Hayle.  Hard going for the first few mils.  Julian accompanied me for the day.  Saw seals “bottling”… dozing whilst bobbing upright in the water like a bottle!  Treated us to a cream tea.  My last night with Tricia and Julian.

Friday 27th August 2010 My first day reunited with Mig Bertha (my huge and heavy rucksack!).  Started off the day in classic fashion… walking the wrong way!  How can I manage that?  All I have to do is keep the sea on my left, right?  I had walked down the highest, steepest, softest and hardest-going sand dunein the south west of
England before I realised my mistake.  Then what?  I had to walk back up the highest, steepest, softest and hardest-going sand dune in the south west of England, again… with Big Bertha on board!  The sun came out and remained on display for the rest of the day.  Stayed in Portreath.

Saturday 28th August 2010 Portreath to Perranporth.  Found a particularly lovely camping spot in a disused cliffside quarry.  Watched the sun set and the moon rise over stewed dumplings.  What a pretty place!

Sunday 29th August 2010  Walked into Perranporth for breakfast and donations.  Then a lot of beach walking and more sand dunes!  Had 39 winks on a craggy pont until I was woken up by a kind and concerned father and son checking that I was ok!  It seems I sleep in an alarming way.  The last time this happened was when I had a doze at Lulworth Cove!  Stayed in Newquay, which is a party town, so I had an early night.

Thursday 1st July 2010 Torquay to Dartmouth.  Met a Shirley Bassey tribute singer called "Debbie Farrell" who served me an ice cream!  Met a guy who had just been made redundant and was taking time out to decide his future by following the SWCP to Land's End.  Kept passing him during a very long day.  Saw porpoises off Berry Head.  A sperm whale had been spotted today as well, and made it onto the local BBC news.  Had the most delicious brie and onion marmalade sandwich in the cafe at Berry Head and also a very generous donation.  Decided to "make a full day of it" and go for Dartmouth!  First drizzle in weeks, and thought a poncho might be a worthwhle addition to my kit list.  Steep and winding path to Kingswear.  Ferry across to Dartmouth.  Stayed in an amazing room at "The Royal Castle Hotel". In it were steps up to a window with two chairs which looked out over Dartmouth Harbour.  The following morning, I took the riverboat cruise up to Totnes (recommended).  Saw an otter.  Then took a train up to Taunton for the week-end. 

Monday 5th July 2010 A lovely sunny day.  Had a late start at 11.00 am from Dartmouth where I had previously left off, knowing it would be a short day.  Very pleased with my new Osprey rucksack from Taunton Leisure.  Went via Dartmouth Castle, then Blackpool Sands.  Late lunch at Slapton Sands watching
mackerel being caught by fishermen using rubber eels.  Saw a pair of Gannets diving and catching fish as well.  Stayed in a very comfortable B&B right on the sea wall at Torcross and had dinner at Start Bay Inn.

Tuesday 6th July 2010  Another beautiful day.  Torcross to Salcombe.  My old stomping ground!  Stevie Smith, the ferry man, took me across the beautiful Salcombe Estuary - arguably the most beautiful estuary in the British Isles.  Stayed with my old mate, another Steve, before heading back to London for a few days.

Tuesday 13th July 2010 Returned to Salcombe from London and stayed with Steve again.  Took the ferry to South Sands and then onto familiar coastline towards Bantham.  Plenty of generous donations placed in the collection box.  The weather provided a mixture of sunshine and drizzle.  Had dinner at The Sloop Inn  in Bantham, and then stayed in a lovely and contemporary B&B a few miles inland.

Wednesday 14th July 2010 Relief!  The ferry across the River Avon at Bantham was running!  An immaculate clinker-constructed dinghy with an outboard motor, along with two other passengers, dropped us off on the beach at the far side of the river.  After a series of steep sections I arrived at the River Erme.  Off with the shoes and socks, and trousers rolled up.  The water only came up to my knees!  Whilst drying my feet and having my picnic lunch, I got chatting to two walkers who were following a section of the SWCP.  My charity box was soon rustling with a further generous donation.  The weather started to close in and out came my new poncho.  Bad idea!  It didn't stay over my back, but became a sail, whipping my face and eyes in the gusty wind!  I decided they are best suited to conditions when there is no wind!  Towards the end of the day I met a family of four who had abandoned their search for an elusive beach and were trudging back along the same path as me to a car park.  I offered my poncho to one of the shivering and rain-soaked daughters who gratefully wore it for the last few hundred metres to the car.  Another donation!  I found my B&B on the outskirts of Noss Mayo, and spent an enjoyable evening at The Ship Inn  being entertained by the unexpected arrival of a very large group of Morris dancers (the land lord thought they were due a week later!).  Delicious fish pie.

Thursday 15th July 2010 A leisurely breakfast!  This is the life!  Then I retraced my steps to the coast path before rounding the coast back into Noss Mayo.  I walked for a couple of miles with a lovely couple who were from Southampton and were staying on their yacht.  Forced into Noss Mayo harbour by stormy weather, they told me about a chap they had met a couple of days before.  He was getting married nearby, and had been staying on Burgh Island at Bigbury, a few miles back along the coast.  He had sailed his yacht round to the island and moored it off the sand spit which links Burgh Island to the mainland.  On the morning of his wedding day, he awoke in his hotel room to the sight and sounds of a ferocious gale which was threatening to drive his yacht onto the rocks.  Grabbing his waterproofs, morning suit, best man and the ring, they jumped on board the yacht and managed, with great difficulty, to get the boat away from the island.  They sailed the few miles round the coast to the shelter of Noss Mayo, with the best man being violently ill over the side of the boat.  They had just enough time to moor up, clean up, dress up and dash to the church with minutes to spare before the bride arrived.  What a wedding day!  Good luck to them both!

Tuesday 20th July 2010 Met Paul Cox (Head of Science and Learning at the National Marine Aquarium in Plymouth).  His mission is "conservation through engagement".  The Aquarium hosts a fantastic collection of marine creatures from all over the world, but also includes native sea life from around our shores.  The main aquarium holds over 2,500,000 litres of sea water.  Most days, a couple of scuba divers enter the aquarium and wash the glass at the front of the viewing gallery and dust down the concrete and rubber coral.  

They are often chased by "Snorkel", the Loggerhead Turtle who is one of the Aquarium’s most popular inhabitants. A rescue turtle, Snorkel was found washed
up on Sennen Cove in Cornwall in 1990. She has numerous health problems including poor eyesight, epilepsy and buoyancy issues, but lives a happy life at the Aquarium. She eats over 100 squid every week, and sometimes enjoys a bite out of the divers's wetsuit. It struck me that these guys have one of the most unusual and sometimes hazardous house keeping and window cleaning jobs in Britain, or anywhere else for that matter!  Worth a visit and fun to watch!

On with the walking.  The heavens opened.  My rucksack got heavier as it absorbed water (no rucksack cover with me today).  Amazed at how much water a synthetic sleeping bag and travel towel can absorb, and at how heavy they can get!  Fitful night's sleep.  

Wednesday 21st July 2010 BBC Radio Solent phone interview at 6.45 am.  Thank you to them for their continued interest and support during the walk.  A sunny day with scattered coastal showers.  Enjoyed forty winks on the coastal path, before reaching Looe.  Stayed at the "Jolly Sailor".

Thursday 22nd July 2010 A short day by usual standards.  Felt tired and really noticed the weight on my back today for some reason.  Bumped into a guy called Mark who had just come out of the water having speared about eight mullet and bass.  They were attached around his waist and were going to be eaten for lunch to celebrate his son's birthday.  Staggered my way into Polperro and was welcomed by the lovely David and Anne Foster who run the "Cottage Bed & Breakfast".   They have run this delightful B&B/restaurant for 19 years, and it is a beautiful and most comfortable place to stay. A superb dinner, breakfast and incredibley generous donation to match!

Friday 23rd July 2010 Some of the toughest sections of the SWCP ahead of me.  A sunny day, though with a bank of cloud hovering slighly inland. Beautiful coastline, clear sea, sandy coves, cliff-top chats and donations. Regular stops and many, many flights of steps to negotiate.  Finally reached Fowey.  The Navy is in town! Hundreds of sailors enjoying shore-leave. I left them to it.

Saturday July 24th 2010 As I left Fowey, an Air Sea Rescue display was under way. Weather was sunny but the clouds were always hanging around the coast and threatened to release rain at any time.  It did not rain until late afternoon. Regular rest stops over 10.5 miles or so between Fowey and Charlestown, including a cream tea at Polmear.  Had a long chat with a woman who recognised me from my Country Walking article!

Sunday 25th July 2010 Charlestown to Mevagissey.  A lovely sunny day.  Quite a few ups and downs and some generously heavy coin donations!  Cornwall is such a special place.  Coast, coves, beaches and reefs.  You can see the pleasure this place shares on the faces of the people you meet on its coast.  I find plenty of opportunities to sit and enjoy the surroundings.  Mevagissey is a bustling Cornish fishing port.  Working boats, nets, pots, flags and crates for the catch.  Tonight I am particulalry grateful to be here.

Monday 26th July 2010 A struggling day today.  Really feeling the weight of "Big Bertha" - my rucksack.  Made it into Portloe and came across a vision of hospitality heaven - "The Lugger Hotel".  What a lovely, secluded and under-stated place. 
Generous management too!  Dinner overlooking Portloe's tiny harbour.

Tuesday 27th July 2010 After my luxurious night's rest at "The Lugger Hotel", I plodded on to Portscatho in humid weather with a few moments of mizzle.  Got eaten by horseflies - horrible things!  Had a chat with a local landowner who told me basking sharks were most often seen along this section of coast in late May and June, and that butterflies were abundant as well.  He also mentioned there were otters around, but as ever, I never saw one. Arriving in Portscatho, there were no rooms available but was given a free pitch for my tent in a lovely campsite at Gerrans.  The owner gave me a cup of tea, and converted my coins into notes to lighten my load.

Wednesday 28th July 2010 Onwards to Falmouth where I left the path for a few days - a photographic job in the Hebrides provided much-needed funds for the walk.

Tuesday 15th June 2010
Took a train to Weymouth and set off along the coast to the sunny Isle of Portland.  Around the Isle with its Olympic preparations to host the sailing events, old and existing quarries for its famous Portland stone.  Powerful currents raced off Portland Bill.  The long strip of Chesil Beach was invitingly illuminated in the evening sun - my companion tomorrow.  I met two cameramen filming ravens for "Spring Watch".  Thank you for the donation!  Tired feet.  Stayed overnight in Weymouth.  What a lovely place.

Wednesday 16th June 2010
Weymouth to West Bay.  The beautiful weather continued.  Along "The Fleet" with Chesil Beach watching over me, its cobbles slowly turning to fine gravel the further west I walked, past Abbotsbury and its Swannery hosting hundreds of mute swans.  To the east, the Isle of Portland dominated the landscape.  In the evening my feet told me it was time to stop at West Bay.  

Thursday 17th June 2010
Another stunning day, and I had the pleasure of Henry
Haslam's company.  A keen walker, Henry kindly shortened his pace to accommodate my flagging feet.  Over Golden Cap, at 189 metres (619 ft.), the highest cliff on the south coast, and providing far-reaching views from Portland Bill in the east to Start Point in the west.  Here, another inland diversion of the cliff path threatened due to more landslips, but with the tide going out, we took to the beach after our picnic lunch and headed towards Lyme Regis.  I found a fossil on the beach embedded within a rock!  Through Lyme Regis and past The Cobb, the 183 metre (600 ft.) long stone breakwater protecting the harbour, and then into the dense woodland of Undercliffs National Nature Reserve.  From my perspective, this became a long and slightly tedious path.  Henry turned round to make the journey back to his car parked in West Bay by bus, and so I continued alone and endured this jungle environment for another few miles.  By the time I reached Seaton, my feet were completely exhausted.  Too late for food, a pint of Guinness and packets of crisps restored me, followed by a deep sleep in a comfortable room!

Monday 21st June 2010
I took the train back down from London and arrived back in Seaton in time to watch the sun start to set over the calm waters of Seaton Bay.

Tuesday 22nd June 2010
From Seaton to Beer, with its narrow stream funnelling down the main street, and on to Branscombe Beach upon whose shores the stricken container ship, MSC Napoli, spilled its containers in 2007 sparking scenes reminiscent of Whisky Galore!  The beauty of the beach is now completely restored and a massive anchor from the ship sits on the sea front as a monument to this historical chapter.  On to Sidmouth for bed and rest.

Wednesday 23rd June 2010
Feeling run down I realised I was running a temperature - so I wasn't just exhausted from the strenuous path!  Rather than make it to Exmouth that night, I paced myself gently in the brilliant sunshine and found time to sleep on the banks of the lovely River Otter, waking to the ratchet of a fisherman's reel and a tug-of-war battle with a three pound 'mullet' before reaching Budleigh Salterton.  I found a room above a pub, had an early and light dinner before getting some R&R.

Thursday 24th June 2010
So today I awoke feeling much better and started my short walk along the path to Exmouth.  I met and shook hands with the ferryman who would take me across the Exe on the following Tuesday before taking a train back to London.   

I will back back on the path from Exmouth on Tuesday 28nd June, and you can follow my progress at twitter@philipwilliams .  Come and find me!


Tuesday 29th June 2010
Took the train down to Exeter and on to Exmouth.  Walked into Exmouth town itself.  Then a five minute ferry crossing to Starcross.  Coastal path through Dawlish and along sea walls parallel to the railway track.  Teignmouth is a nice place.  People were catching mackerel at the entrance to the harbour.  Another short (and free ) ferry crossing to Shaldon - a really lovely place.

Wednesday 30th June 2010
Shaldon to Torquay.  Glorious weather. 

Tuesday 11th May 2010 - National Carers Awards Lunch, London. Today I had the pleasure of being invited to the "National Carers Awards" lunch in support of the Alzheimer's Society, held at the Marriott Hotel in London's Grosvenor Square.  I must pass on my thanks to everyone at the Society for making me feel so welcome, and to Bupa and the Daily Mail for organising such a wonderful afternoon.  Full details of the event are
on the Alzheimer's Society website.

Awards were handed out to five amazing individuals whose love, compassion and commitment moved everyone attending the lunch.

They, like everyone in a caring role, should be extremely proud of themselves.  For people like me, they are heroes.  But they will tell you that they are just doing what they can to help, and wouldn't have it any other way...  Enough said.

I also had the pleasure of meeting some of the familiar
faces who are commited supporters of the Alzheimer's Society - a couple of whom I hope will join me on the walk at some point!

Friday 28th May 2010 (Poole to Swanage - 8 miles)
I took the train to Poole and a bus down to the ferry at the start of the South West Coast Path.  A four minute ferry ride and I was standing by the South West Coast Path sculpture.  Shell Bay reclined invitingly and curvaceously ahead of me.  Walking along this beautiful sandy beach, I noticed nude sunbathers, and as the sun was out, I decided to join in the fun... I hoisted my trousers up over my knees.

I climbed up the cliff path to marvel at Old Harry Rocks and in the distance, marvelled even more at the elite members of Her Majesty's Armed Forces parachuting out of a Hercules aircraft and into the waters around Poole Harbour.  They were then scooped up by RIBS and returned to the shore - possibly to do it all again. Julian and Maggie Maughan of The Castleton in Swanage gave me a warm welcome and I am grateful to them not only for my complimentary stay, but for introducing me to George Willey.  There is much to say about George, and so please bear with me until I have loaded up the recording of our conversation.  A local reporter and resident of Swanage for over 45 years, there is nothing he doesn't know about the local area!

I ended the evening with a cold beer, alone but content, overlooking Swanage Bay.  It had won me over.

Saturday 29th May 2010 (Swanage to Kimmeridge - 13 miles) What a change in the weather.  Today was overcast with heavy rain and strong headwinds. Kimmeridge was my next stopover.  Laden with my big rucksack to help prepare me for the self-sufficient stages ahead, I walked along a heavily eroded coastal path, with major sections of cliff already slipped away into the sea below.  I had lunch at Dancing Ledge and watched a well-equipped family with two young children climbing the sea cliff there.  I looked for, but did not find any fossils. After lunch, I climbed one of the steepest sections of path you could imagine with steps cut into its near vertical incline.  The South West Coast Path is known for its strenuous terrain, and at 630 miles in length, it's the equivalent of walking from sea level to the summit of Mount Everest and back down to sea level - twice.  After grunting my way up this short section of path, I may suggest the national trail should be re-named "The South West Stairmaster".

At St. Albans Head, I was ushered in to look round the volunteer coastguard station by Dick Aldous, former chief constable of Dorset police.  Mr Aldous was about to become the new station manager, and despite a painful back, gave me a guided tour.  It is run by "The National Coastwatch Institution" which supports the regular coastguard and helps to keep a visual watch on our coastal waters.  Over the years they have assisted in both sea and coastal rescues, including aiding climbers and walkers.  I hope that I won't take up any of their time during my circumnavigation of our coast.  They are always on the look out for volunteers over the age of 18, and provide full training.  So if you are interested, I am sure they would be delighted to hear from you.

When I arrived at Kimmeridge, with its eye-catching tower built by the Rev. John Clavell, I needed to head inland for a few miles to reach my accommodation in Corfe Castle (this week-end was a Bank Holiday and a place to stay had become quite a challenge).  For the second time ever in my life, I hitched a lift.  A lovely young couple drove me into the village, despite the fact it was out of their way.  They also donated some money.  Thank you!  That night I met up with friends who were camping nearby who were enthusing as much as I was about Dorset's wonderful coastline and its idyllic villages. 

Sunday 30th May 2010 (Kimmeridge to Lulworth Cove - 14 miles) From Corfe Castle, I took a much-reduced fare taxi ride back down to the beach at Kimmeridge.  By now the bay was thronging with visitors and divers. Heading out of the bay, I passed BP's "nodding donkey" oil well. Possibly the UK's longest running well, it continues to pump about 80 barrels of oil every day, which is collected by lorry and refined and mixed with the nation’s main supply.  Onwards on a helter-skelter ride of breathtaking chalk cliffs, vertical drops of 100's of feet into a turquoise sea, whilst fossils hid from me on the cliffs and rocks below.  In the late afternoon I came
to the edge of Lulworth Cove, and, exhausted by the "South West Stairmaster", I snatched forty winks on a grassy slope.  I was woken up by the concerned inquiry
of a kind woman, grateful that I was only resting at the foot of a steep drop.  As the sun dipped, Lulworth Cove - the subject of geography lessons at school - lulled me in the evening sun.

At the far end of the beach where the road to the village starts, "Chris" sat on his wall.  On the sea shore, he sells sea shells.  Surrounded by beautifully painted shells and stones, he masterfully decorates these hand-picked treasures with vibrant colours and inscriptions. A small crowd seemed forever to be around him, drawn to his craft and glad to acquire his art, and that of his wife Sarah.  Originally from Norfolk, Chris found Lulworth and never left.  He is, I suspect, a wise man, who hears comments from year-round visitors to this famous cove, and smiles inwardly... knowingly.  Great material for a book, perhaps.  After 21 years of painting stones and shells with vivid paints, his trousers have acquired their own painted vibrancy. I expect to see them hanging in a gallery of Chris's choice one day too.
  
Monday 31st May 2010 (Lulworth Cove to Weymouth - 15 miles) Durdle Door in the early morning sunlight.  Beautiful.  Shushing waves in the still air.  A perfect start to the finish of this week-end's leg of the walk.  By now my collection boxes were both rattling and rustling with generous donations.  The steep cliffs levelled into the long and gentle beach of Weymouth Bay.  As a rucksack, white floppy hat, sunglasses and even whiter legs plodded past thousands of beach revellers, children and parents continued to drop money into the collection boxes.  By the time I reached Weymouth station and waved 'hello' to the tourist land train as it rattled past, I felt ready for the three hour rest on the train back to London, but particularly sad to wave good-bye to this incredible section of Dorset coastline.

Next time, I am walking round the Isle of Portland - on 15th June - and then on westwards.  Come and join me!

Friday 9th April 2010
When I passed through Selsey in March, I had hoped to
meet one of the town's more familiar residents.  At the time though, he was busy filming an episode of "The Sky At Night", the longest ever running television series which he has presented for the BBC every month, bar one, since 1957.  So I had carried on along the coast, promising to return at a later date to pay him a visit.  

Today was that day.  

Sir Patrick Moore welcomed me in his study, rows of books adorned its walls, whilst certificates and paintings of “bogeys” – friendly aliens created by his mother, Gertrude - filled the spaces.  These beautifully crafted portrayals of extra-terrestrial creatures could well have been the inspiration for the character of "ET".  I wonder if they were.

Sir Patrick was born in Pinner in Middlesex, moved with his parents to Aldwick just outside Bognor, and then to East Grinstead.  After the war, he moved to Selsey, attracted by its seaside location and "no through traffic", the clear skies were an additional bonus from an astronomer's perspective providing minimal light pollution.  

“When I first arrived in Selsey it was a small village with only two shops: a butchers and a general store.  Nowadays, it has a few more shops and local businesses, but has retained its village community during its evolution as a small town.” He explained.

Sir Patrick's home is the venue for many parties, local events and social gatherings.  He enjoys the community and the local people within it.

'The only love of his life', his wartime sweetheart Lorna, died when they were both aged just nineteen.  “My main regret is that I never had the opportunity to have a family with her”.

Sir Patrick has never married, stating “I never settle for second best”, but shared his home with his mother until she died in 1981 at the age of 94.

As we talked, I became aware of Sir Patrick's understandable frustration at being confined to a chair.  An injury to his spine sustained whilst serving with the RAF during the war had finally caught up with him.  He reflected fondly on his days playing cricket for both the local team and the Lord's Taverners. He was a spin bowler.

“As well as my cricket, I would go down to the local tennis courts every
morning and look for a game with whoever happened to be down there.”

At 87, Sir Patrick's hands are also failing him.  He is a talented composer and accomplished musician.  But today, his beloved xylophone is unplayed, and his restricted mobility prevents him from observing the moon and stars.  It also means that the 1908 "Woodstock" typewriter that sits in his study has become an exhibit.  He has written over 100 books on its keys. His latest took five years to complete, this time on his computer, which he also uses to talk to fellow scientists from around the world using video conferencing.

However his mind is as sharp as ever, his eyes have a mischievous sparkle and maintain a focused concentration - one of them through his signature monocle - as we reflected on his life, for which he has an infectious zest.

"I remember the end of the war, and thinking we've WON the war.  Now I have watched them lose the peace.  Years spent sucking up to the same people.  There can never have been such a dearth of statesmen such as there is now.  If I was twenty years younger I would be fighting for a parliamentary seat  - for UKIP. Not now though, I'm afraid.”

“Of course you could!” I countered.

“An old coot in a wheelchair?  No way!”  His eyes sparkled again.  

As I shook his hand – the very same hand that has shaken those of Orville Wright, Neil Armstrong and accompanied Albert Einstein on piano as he played his
violin - I realised I had been in the company of someone who has touched us all - as a nation - and brought space into our living rooms.

“Good luck with your walk and all success to you”.

“Thank you”.

To Portsmouth…

Portsea to Portsmouth  (7 miles this leg - 95 miles in total) After my morning with Sir Patrick, I headed by car back with my ever-supportive girlfriend and occasional walking companion Philippa, to Southsea Marina where I left off on March 29th.  Along the beach, we passed the nudists enjoying the April sunshine.  Soaring 170 metres above Portsmouth Harbour, the Spinnaker Tower beckoned us from its foundations set in Gunwharf Quays, a modern icon in an historic setting. Today, this multi-million pound development, with its designer shops, cosmopolitan bars and restaurants balanced well, I thought, with this historic city. 

Portsmouth is the home of the Royal Dockyard founded by Henry VIII in 1540 and steeped in maritime history.  It is England’s most important naval base today. Nearby, Henry VIII’s warship ‘Mary Rose’ lay under wraps whilst her new viewing dock was being prepared, and Lord Nelson’s flagship HMS Victory awaited our arrival on the following day.  HMS Warrior was on show too, the world’s most advanced warship… when it was first launched in 1860.  

Settling in to our modern hotel in the centre of Gunwharf Quay (and grateful for the special discount they had offered us), we peered out of the window across the sunlit plaza below.  For a moment we could have been in any modern city, in any tourist destination, anywhere in the world.  

Saturday 10th April 2010  (Portsmouth to Lee-on-Solent - 7 miles this leg - 102 miles in total) Chief Petty Office Allan Mills and Able Seaman Kelly Stone welcomed us aboard HMS Victory on yet another sunny morning.  

Designed by Sir Thomas Slade, the Victory was launched in 1765 and entered  her 34 years of service in 1778.  She is 226 feet in length, armed with 114 guns, and required up to 850 crew and about 26 miles of rope to sail her.

In 1805, she sailed into the infamous battle of Trafalgar under the command of Sir Thomas Hardy.  Lord Nelson was on board to oversee this campaign against a combined enemy fleet of French and Spanish warships.  The resulting victory endured the loss of Lord Nelson, fatally wounded by a French marksman. The very spot where he fell is marked by a plaque on the quarter deck.

In 1812 the Victory retired from frontline duty and anchored in Portsmouth Harbour. For the next 110 years she remained there fulfilling a combination of practical and ceremonial roles. In 1922, amid fears for her continued survival, she was moved into the Royal Naval Dockyard and placed in dry dock and work began on restoring her to 'fighting' 1805 condition.  This work continues today and members of the public can explore her six decks, crouch under her incredibly low ‘overheads’ (ceilings) and imagine how life on board must have been. 

For someone in CPO Allan Mills’ position, you don’t need
to imagine too hard.  Like many others before him, he has got used to the noise
of the original sailors moving around her at night as he lives on board the
Victory. He regularly hears footsteps on the decks, and is adamant that he has
also felt a hand on his shoulder whilst reading.  I believe him.

From the decks of this historical ship, we continued on the path that is the “Solent Way”. A short ferry crossing to Gosport took us through this relatively narrow section of the harbour.  Yachts, ships and hovercraft made their own voyages to both near and far-flung shores.  

As we made our way along the shoreline towards Lee-on-Solent, my recently acquired publicity panels from my friends at “Branded UK Ltd” were starting to grab people’s attention.  Attached to the front and back of my rucksack, I had almost forgotten they were there, but as more and more people were coming up to me and asking me about my walk and dropping coins in the box, I appreciated the interest they were generating.  As we chatted I was reminded of how many of us are affected in some way by Alzheimer’s or Dementia.  

1 in 13 of us will contract some form of Dementia by the time we are 65.  If we reach 80 (and more of us are likely to do so than ever before), that figure is significantly reduced to 1 in 3.  

Angela works in a nursing home specialising in Dementia care.  She values very highly the limited amount of spare time she has, and spends much of it walking along the coast, “re-charging her batteries, enjoying the space beside the sea”. 

“Without the break, I wouldn’t be able to do my job.  Whether you are a professional carer, or having to look after a loved-one for instance, it is so easy to feel isolated.  It’s vital that we can extract ourselves from the confines of a caring role and be in a ‘normal’ environment on a regular basis.  So often it is the carers who need looking after, not just the patients for whom
they are providing the care.”

I explained to her that a chunk of the money we were raising for The Alzheimer’s Society would be used for that very purpose, such is the appreciation and importance attached to her role as a carer.

As we reached Lee-on-Solent, I eyed up the superb
collection of deflated hovercrafts through the closed gate which included the largest, the oldest and the quite unusual. 

To cheer myself up after waving Philippa off on a bus back home, I looked forward to a curry and comfortable bed.  I got both.

Sunday 11th April 2010 (Lee-on-Solent to Southampton - 16 miles this leg -  118 miles in total)  “How long will this fabulous weather continue?” I exclaimed on my amble to Hamble.  At Warsash I took the pink ferry from the pink ferry shelter, across the Hamble River to Hamble-le-Rice, now mostly referred to simply as le Rice. It is famous as a yachting centre. I cut through Hamble Common and enjoyed the extensive view across Southampton Water towards the city, ships already visible in the distant docks.  

Past the oil terminal with only the merest hint of oil in the air, Royal Victoria Country Park next and the remains of the country’s first purpose-built military hospital.

The city of Southampton started to unveil itself.  Powered boats, yachts and dinghies were out in this glorious weather.  One boat stood out in particular: P&O’s new addition, The Azura, was preparing herself for its maiden voyage on the following day.

As I approached the Itchen Bridge, I thought of the many golden days I have spent fishing for and photographing its resident trout many miles up river.  In spite of the Samaritan’s signs, I was in a happy mood and crossed to the other side, stopping only to wave at two tugs and a yacht passing 100 feet below me.

I was simply amazed at people’s generosity on my way into the centre.  A gentleman, who I figured must live on the streets, asked me about the walk and then placed a donation in the box.  Need I say anything, really?

I spent my night in a comfortable and safe room, and started the following day with a cooked breakfast.  I was grateful.

Monday 12th April 2010
At 8.28 the following Monday morning I told Julian Clegg and the listeners of his BBC Radio Solent breakfast show about my walk.  I am now officially  signed up as a “Julian’s Person” and through his show, I hope that I will be able to update his listeners on my progress as I head westwards towards Bournemouth and beyond. All support and encouragement will be gratefully shared!  Thank you Julian and the team for making my visit so
enjoyable.  Keep listening…   

Friday 23rd April 2010  (Southampton to Beaulieu - 9 miles this leg - 127 miles in total) I took the train down to Southampton and popped by BBC Radio Solent’s offices to let them know I was back on the trail.  After a short ferry crossing across Southampton Water in the clear morning sun, past tug-towed container ships and
speeding passenger catamarans, I stepped onto Hythe Pier (the seventh longest in England and complete with its own passenger train service). I was greeted by Andrew Denyer, a cameraman, a sound man, a walking enthusiast and excellent company.  After a coffee, we found a place to park Andrew’s car for the day:  the local police station.  Thank you officers. 

Forced to skirt round the oil and gas terminals near Fawley, we followed the Solent Way across Beaulieu Heath... After a pub lunch (a challenging day this) we reached the beautiful Beaulieu at the head of the river.  In the most tranquil and uncoastal of settings, I talked to Andrew’s camera about my walk before he headed back to release his car from custody.  I spent the night in a mill providing wonderful accommodation, overlooking the river to one side, and a lake on the other.  

Saturday 24th April 2010  (Beaulieu to Milford-on-Sea - 23 miles this leg - 150 miles in total) Our early summer continued, with glorious blue skies covering my progress
along the misty morning wooded banks of the Beaulieu River to Bucklers Hard.  The site of a former shipbuilding centre, two warships for Lord Nelson’s fleet were built here, “Agamemnon” in 1781 and “Euryalus” in 1803. What a perfect film-like setting.  A brief visit to the chapel before continuing on the Solent Way, much of which kept me to the hard tarmac of the local country lanes.

I passed fields of brilliant yellow rape seed.  Then horses and cows as they relaxed in the lanes, as is their right in the New Forest National Park.  I hear pigs roam free as well, but saw none today. On the outskirts of Lymington, I couldn’t believe the cheek of a local sign warning motorists that otters cross the road here:  As a regularly unsuccessful wildlife photographer, I have spent days shivering by the rivers of Dartmoor at dawn and dusk trying to photograph these elusive creatures.  Now I knew where to come!  Perhaps I would be able to photograph them from the comfort of my car!  

I enjoyed a pasty by the town quay before heading up the cobbled Georgian High Street to visit friends at John D Wood & Co. in their Lymington office.  Then along the coast through the Keyhaven and Pennington Marshes Nature Reserve.  Formerly an area which provided one tenth of Britain’s salt, I watched the “terns” diving into the water – the same birds I believe that are the symbol of the Solent Way.  Onwards to the pebbly spit of Hurst Beach.  At the end of this promontory sits Hurst Castle. Built by Henry VIII, it is only a mile from the Isle of Wight, and to the west, The Needles caught the evening sun’s farewell. It shared a tranquil sunset with a pair of cronking castle-based ravens, and the soothing waves as they hushed the pebbles.  I lingered, reflected, reviewed the coastline to the east and have to say, felt very satisfied.

Sunday 25th April 2010 (Milford-on-Sea to Bournemouth - 16 miles this leg - 166 miles in total) From Milford on Sea, I set off the next morning towards Christchurch and
along its Bay.  Groynes galore and happy dogs playing with balls thrown by their owners.   My floppy hat and sunglasses protected me from the sun, and the Alzheimer’s Society panels attached to my rucksack and rattling collection box brought in the inquiries, chats and donations.  Coins and now a couple of notes were being deposited. Thank you all.  

Although sunny, a chilly wind curtailed the coastal flight of a paraglider.  I chatted with his colleagues on the cliff near Barton on Sea.  Joe was a photographer, and took his camera with him paragliding thousands of meters into the sky over the Himalayas.  Today, however, the conditions along this stretch of Hampshire coastline thwarted him.  I noticed the coast was growing more cliffs, albeit that they were eroding and collapsing into the sea in places.

Along the lovely beach to Christchurch, and at Mudeford’s quay, a long line of parents with their children, fishing for crabs.  A short hop by a ferry - the smooth running of which was not affected by ash from an Icelandic volcano - across the mouth of the Avon took me to Hengistbury Head.  Huts and beach houses, relaxed coastal living and material for home-style magazines.  

Bournemouth beckoned me and my complaining feet.  Beautiful beaches under clear blue skies.  The beaches were now covered in beautiful fine sand.  These were proper sand-in-your-eye holiday beaches, complete with lifeguard posts and volley ball nets.  Happy, smiling dogs; happy smiling owners; a happy and smiling place.  I was happy and smiling. 

Bournemouth welcomed me.  In fact, it welcomed us
all.

Monday 26th April 2010 (Bournemouth to Poole Harbour - 5 miles this leg - 171 miles in total) The sun is always shining, and the sea so turquoise!  So it continued along
the beautiful beach towards Poole.  Reaching Sandbanks, I appreciated why this strip of shoreline commanded luxury resort prices.  In the right house, in the right position, at the right time, on the right day, you could be believe you were on holiday in… Sandbanks.  On this April day, I caught a glimpse of what made this slice of our coastline so special, and had an inkling as to the magic it might work on a wealthy British resident and his financial facilities.

I stood on North Haven Point and surveyed my future.  A sign pointing west.  

It said:  “South West Coast Path”.

An update on my itinerary will follow in the next few days.  I hope you will come and join me.