After a lovely few days spent with Philippa exploring the northwest coast by car, we said our farewell and I continued along the coast on foot. I followed the road from Tongue to Bettyhill (A386). After lunch the rain started, and as I was walking over the highest ground in the area there were a couple of flashes and claps of thunder. I was glad it didn’t last as I felt exposed! I stayed the night at the Bettyhill Hotel which was in the middle of being refurbished. I may have been the first guest to stay in my room. Around the building were workmen and workwomen, many I think from Eastern Europe, painting and fixing things.
I walked from Laid to Tongue. This was a particularly memorable day as, when I started walking up the east side of Loch Eriboll, I decided to stop for my lunch on the shoreline. I plonked myself down on the grass with the rocks and shore in front of me and as I was tucking into my ham and cheese sandwich I noticed two small heads weaving though the water towards the rocks. Instinctively I hid behind ‘Big Bertha’ (my rucksack). To my amazement, two otters came out of the water, one with a small flatfish in its mouth. The otter with the fish chomped and chewed its way through lunch whilst the other one rolled around in the seaweed and then moved behind a rock – all less than 20 metres from where I was gawping. I am sure that the other one knew I was there as we caught each other’s eye, but he seemed completely relaxed. After he had finished eating, he slipped back into the water, I presume to continue hunting for food. By this time the other one was probably asleep behind the rock, but I couldn’t see him/her. What an honour and such a special thing to see. I don’t know what it is about otters, but they are so enchanting to watch. Later that day I crossed the ‘Kyle of Tongue’ and stumbled into the ‘Ben Loyal Hotel’ for the start of a few days with Philippa. She was coming up to join me for a few days, and was bringing a car with her so we could explore the area, including inland! I walked from Durness to Laid along the edge of Loch Eriboll. Today was the Olympics 2012 closing ceremony and so I was keen to find a TV for the night. Which I did - at Glenaladale Bed & Breakfast run by Donnie and Kate MacDougall, overlooking the loch. Donnie and Kate are accomplished musicians, and I would return at a later date to interview them. Today I was visiting Cape Wrath, the most north-westerly tip of mainland Britain. I arrived at the ferry crossing at 9.45am to give me enough time to walk up to the lighthouse and back (or so I thought) but had to wait for the next crossing that day which was at 12.30. It took us across to the other side of the Kyle of Durness. I ended up on the organised group tour mini bus driven by a chap called Alan due to the fact that my timing was out. On the way up, Alan insisted on giving other walkers a ride to avoid the same problem. Most of Cape Wrath is owned by the MOD, and there are plans for them to acquire all of it. John and Kay Ure live in the lighthouse. They took on the lease in 2009 and converted it into a home. They opened the ‘Ozone Café’ which is probably the remotest one in Britain. I interviewed them and they kindly gave me lunch, on the light house so to speak! I then set off back down towards the ferry, and was scooped up by Alan in his minibus insisting that I wouldn’t make it back in time. On the way down the track we picked up other walkers as well who would be in the same predicament. Once safely deposited back at the ferry landing at Keoldale I ambled back into Durness. A rest day. The B&B I had stayed in last night was full tonight. So I moved to another and spent the rest of the day sleeping! I started out from ‘Kinlochbervie Hotel’ who donated money AND my packed lunch. Thank you so much. I retraced my steps along the B801 and then along the A838. I received a few donations from drivers as I wandered through classic scenery with the summit of ‘Foinaven / Foinne Bhein’ to the south-west. I had the full load on my back today and reminded myself how fortunate I have been to find willing supporters to carry the bulk of my kit to my next destination. It makes such a difference! I saw another golden eagle crossing at great height from one ridgeline to another and went directly overhead. I met a keeper who works on the estate through which the River Dionard flows. He said they caught 70 salmon in the previous few days. The river looked low but there were some lovely pools. By the time I staggered into Durness I was absolutely exhausted. I found a very nice B&B called ‘Aiden House’ and after a refreshing shower I went down to the ‘Mackay Rooms’ restaurant where Pip and I plan to stay in a few days time. It is a lovely place and serves delicious food. Walked from Rhiconich along the B801 which is a quiet single track road to Kinlochbervie. On route I met Jack from Australia who was cycling round Europe and Scotland. I checked in at the ‘Kinlochbervie Hotel’ at lunchtime and then walked up to within a couple of miles of Sandwood Bay, before turning round and walking back. My plan is to return to Sandwood Bay when Philippa arrives in a few days and make a more relaxed day of spending some time exploring this legendary and most inaccessible beach on the British mainland! I walked from just south of Scourie to Rhiconich. The weather remained dry as I plodded along the A838 all day. I watched a golden eagle flying near to a couple of buzzards and realised just how huge they are in comparison. I noticed how they flap their wings in a slightly more ‘gangly’ way compared to a buzzard due to the length of their wings - a bit like a heron. Stayed the night at the ‘Rhiconich Hotel’. I spent the day walking along the road from Drumbeg to Scourie. As ever, the scenery was beautiful. It was a long day as my feet were already sore and tired. I stayed the night at the ‘Eddrachilles Hotel’ in Lower Badcall, just to the south of Scourie. |
Archives 2012 |