Monday 1st October 2011 Overcast initially, but lifted later in the day. I had stayed the night at The West Highland Hotel. From there I took a ferry across the Sound of Sleat to Armadale on the Isle of Skye. Then walked along the quiet A851 up to Isle Ornsay where I checked in at the delightful Hotel Eilean Iarmain on the water's edge, overlooking Knoydart and almost opposite Gavin Maxwell's Camusfearna. Lovely busy bar and restaurant. Slept part of the afternoon as I was so tired.

Tuesday 2nd October 2011 Walked from Isle Ornsay along the A851 in sunny and warm weather to Kyleakin which is the last village on Skye before you cross the bridge back onto the mainland.

Wednesday 3rd October 2011 A very windy and wet day. Got buffeted by gale-force winds as I crossed the Skye Bridge into Kyle of Lochalsh. Just on the far side, with permission, you can visit the Ring of Bright Water Centre on the island of Eilean B’an. This was Gavin Maxwell’s last home. My father was based in Kyle of Lochalsh for a time during the Second World War on a mine layer called HMS Agamemnon. When not on duty and with shore-leave, he would spend time in a dinghy fishing for mackerel, and shooting rabbits “for the ship’s cooking pot”. From here, I was blown and soaked towards Plockton. I had my lunch in a wooden shelter on the road at Drumbuie. Before long I was joined by a few sheep who were also keen to get out of the stormy weather. In the later afternoon I knocked on the door of a beautiful house in Plockton owned by Lilias Simpson. I had met her daughter and son-in-law a few months ago in Grange-over-Sands in Cumbria. Her daughter, Isabel, had offered to put me in contact with her mother when I reached Plockton so that I could get a bed for the night. Here I was. Later that day I had a look round this beautiful village and then enjoyed one of the walks that Lilias had created around her 40 acre estate with beautiful views over Loch Carron and the mountains beyond. Truly a special place. I later heard that Lilias had put up a poster about my walk at the start of the footpaths along with a collection box to raise money for the Charity. I was very touched. That night she cooked us a delicious dinner and enjoyed an evening with guests. Further visitors came to the house in the morning and I walked away with some generous donations. Thank you all!

Tuesday 4th October 2011 More rain today. Along the coast road to take me round and past the very attractive Duncraig Castle (a B&B) and on towards Loch Carron. The road ahead was closed for road works but I found a way through! I spent the afternoon walking miles inland to the inner-most point of the Loch. On the way, I passed through a huge concrete tunnel made of re-enforced concrete which protected both the road and railway line from avalanches. Something this stretch of the road is regularly affected by. Speaking to the locals, they tell me that if you have walked along the ridge above the avalanche site, you become wary of this stretch of road below as the condition of the slopes above is “treacherous” and an “accident waiting to happen”. Indeed, there is a local prophecy that in 2012 a major incident will take place at that spot and that “the only survivor will be a woman wearing a red jacket”. Please take care. Walking back out again along the shore of the loch I heard stag roaring in preparation for the “rut”. Having walked miles back out again along the edge of the Loch I checked in at Locharron Hotel which I had spotted hours earlier on the other side of the water.

Wednesday 5th October 2011 Rest day.

Thursday 6th October 2011 On the way out of the village I put word out that I was heading for Applecross and would be grateful if someone could drive the contents of my rucksack to the village if they were heading that way. At the bridge crossing over the beautiful River Kishorn I met Tim Williams. He was sheltering from the rain in his 4x4 with a trailer attached, loaded up with an ATV, ready to collect a stag from the hillside above should an American client manage to shoot one. Tim gladly offered to take my kit bag over the Applecross Inn that evening. So I was walking lightweight again, and started up the legendary Bealach na Ba, or “pass of the cattle” – at over 2,000 feet, Britain’s highest road. The sound of roaring stags wafted across the mountainside. I had a go at roaring myself at the top of my voice. Before I knew it, I had attracted my own small group of hinds. This was my glen then! What incredible scenery. Gales and stinging hail, then sleet. Invigorating! Back down to sea level on the far side and into the village of Applecross. Applecross was the subject of Monty Halls’s Great Escape for the BBC which has subsequently generated a lot of tourist interest. I checked in at the Applecross Campsite and B&B before going down to the Applecross Inn to collect my kit bag and have a drink, early dinner and bed. Or so I thought. Standing at the bar with a pint of local ale for me in one hand and my bag in the other, stood Tim. The banter started and before long I was joined by and chatting away with the locals. What a lovely, friendly pub. Indeed that day they had been awarded the title of “Best Scottish Pub” and I could understand why. In the early hours, I navigated, with difficulty, my way back to my bed.

Friday 7th October 2011 The campsite's owner, Clive Goldthorpe didn’t charge me for my night’s stay and cooked me a delicious breakfast. Thank you. It certainly helped to soak up some of the remaining alcohol in my system left over from the previous night! Along the coast I passed the bothy where Monty Halls had lived for a few months. In glorious weather, I decided to stop off and explore it and boiled up my delicious “Super Noodle” lunch inside before enjoying it overlooking the pristine beach and glorious views. In the early evening I arrived at Bruce’s house in the tiny hamlet of Fearnmore. Bruce had been one of my drinking hosts at the Applecross Inn the previous night, and had generously offered to transport me and my kit the remaining few miles to Shieldaig that evening where I had a room to stay at Tigh an Eilean Hotel, Shieldaig. Just opposite the hotel is Shieldaig Island, home to a pair of Sea Eagles.

Saturday 8th October 2011 Over breakfast I watched an otter cruise along the shore foraging for food amongst the seaweed. After breakfast, the hotel’s owner Cathryn drove me back to Fearnmore where I jumped out and walked the 13 miles back along the road to the hotel. In torrential rain, I enjoyed what I could see of the incredible scenery around me. I had already decided that this was to be my last walking day of the Charity Walk this year. The weather was closing in, as were the length of the days. Icy conditions were forecast soon and the next leg of the walk would take me through some of the remotest coastline in Scotland. It was time to prepare to head south for the winter.

Sunday 9th October 2011 I enjoyed a walk along the coastline to a point opposite Shieldaig Island. From my vantage point I could see a sea eagle in a tree on the island, not far from its nesting sight. A movement in the water distracted me and I turned my attention to a porpoise arcing its way along the shore. When I returned to look at the eagle, it had gone!

Monday 10th October 2011 At breakfast, I spotted the sea eagle flying over the water and the tip of the island. It was huge. How on earth could I ever think that a buzzard was possibly an eagle when I spot them over the mountains? There is no comparison! I was waiting in the local café for the community bus driver to collect me and the hotels’ laundry but apparently the driver on duty was a stand-in for the regular and drove off with neither consignment. Cathryn kindly took me over to the station at Strathcarron where my journey to London would start.

I will return to this beautiful place in the spring…

Blog... July - October 2010 - Summary

From the beginning of July until the end of September, I updated my progress via Twitter!  If you look at my "Tweets" you will get a broad idea of my progress from Exmouth, along the south coast of Devon, into Cornwall and round Land's End.  Then along the north Cornish coast and back into Devon.  

In the middle of September I slipped a disc in my lower back, and then strained various muscles and ligaments in my left leg later on!  As a result, with only a couple of days to go before I reached the end of the South West Coast Path at Minehead, which was tantalisingly close, I was forced to stop walking and rest my body for most of October.  I received treatment on my back and leg over a four week period.  Having spent the summer walking along our glorious coast, I was not a "happy camper" when forced to rest, but it was essential.  As the walk has progressed, I have come to appreciate that the eventual distance I will hike round our coast will probably run to well over 6,000 miles at least!  There is simply no point in damaging myself and preventing me from completing the walk.  

In the last week of October I returned to Lee, near Ilfracombe, and completed the last four days of the South West Coast Path round to Minehead.  In blustery conditions, and accompanied my friend Ben Whitworth, I plodded up to the magnificent sculpture on the seafront in Minehead marking the beginning, or end
of the Path, depending on which direction one chooses to walk it.  I embraced it (rather worryingly), after which Ben took my picture.  

This section of the walk, The South West Coast Path, as I have probably over-stated by now, is 630 miles long with over 115,000 feet of ascent :  four times the height of Mount Everest.  Under any other circumstances I would have been proud to have a pint at this point and return to the day job.  But it marked the completion of over 1,250 miles of the walk, and the start of the next 5,000 miles or so.

At this stage, you wonderful supporters of the Walk have helped to raise nearly £27,000 for Alzheimer's Society, which puts us ahead of the fund-raising schedule for this point in the walk.  However, tough times are ahead, both on the coast path and in our economy.  I really am so grateful for the incredible amount you have all donated so far, and hope that as new followers come along we
can maintain the fund-raising momentum...

From the beginning of November until the end of March 2011, I will divide my time between working for a couple of weeks every month and then walking for the remainder of the month.  Wales in winter.  Then Scotland  in the spring and early summer.  You are welcome to come and join me, and if can provide some
logistical support including accommodation and local knowledge along the way, I will be very grateful!

Monday 12th September 2011 Back up to Glasgow by train. Stayed over night in the city.

Tuesday 13th September 2011 Took the bus from Glasgow to Tarbert. A lovely trip through some incredible highland scenery. Stayed at http://www.knapguesthouse.co.uk/

Wednesday 14th September 2011 Walked 15 miles from Tarbert to Kilberry. Dry day, although I set off in a light drizzle, so put on my waterproofs which seemed to stay on me for most of the day! All the locals are so friendly. One pulled over in his car and we ending up chatting for about half an hour! He ended up asking me if I wanted to buy his house! Was passed by an ambulance and fire engine later in the day and further along came across a 4x4 on its side in a ditch. The driver was OK and they successfully recovered the vehicle. Stayed at the delightful http://www.kilberryinn.com/.

Thursday 15th September 2011 Walked 20 miles from Kilberry to Ardrishaig. A taxi (John & Maureen Byrne of Glenfyne Taxi Company - 07850 645671) offered to take my kit today to the Grey Gull Inn where I am staying tonight, so I was carrying a much lighter load (a few kilos as opposed to 25 kilos! It makes such a difference). Lovely sunny day and beautiful scenery. One lady called Ellen, who was in her 80’s, passed me and insisted I made a detour via her campsite to collect a donation from her colleagues. The campsite was deserted and they looked a little surprised at my request when I turned up. But all credit to them, they raided their petty cash tin and handed over what may well have been their week’s takings. Such generosity. In the evening my nephew Alex turned up on his touring motorcycle. He is touring round Scotland for a few days and was to walk with me the next day. Great to have his company and his banter!

Friday 16th September 2011 21 miles from Ardrishaig to Ardfern with Alex. Walked along the Crinan Canal and then some main road walking. Rain in the afternoon. Lovely pub dinner.

Saturday 17th September 2011 Said farewell to Alex and continued from Ardfern to Kilmelford. Mainly road walking. Sunny spells and heavy showers. Cars stopped to make donations, including one couple who offered me a carton of milk and a packet of ham!

Sunday 18th September 2011 18 miles from Kilmelford to Oban. Sunny day. Started off with a full rucksack but the owners of the hotel where I had stayed in Kilmelford drove past and relieved me of its contents until that evening. So I spent the rest of the day bouncing along the road. Stayed at the Oban Bay Hotel.

Monday 19th September 2011 A rest day. Visited the local Alzheimer Scotland office and met David Macdonald and Andy Crabb from the Charity. Handed over the contents of the collection box. Had my back serviced by Andrew Pallas of http://www.andrewpallas-osteopath.co.uk/.

Tuesday 20th September 2011 Took the ferry from Oban to Craignure on the Isle of Mull. Going on an organised wildlife watching trip tomorrow with local guide and wildlife expert, David Woodhouse of http://www.scotlandwildlife.com/.

Wednesday 21st September 2011 What a brilliant day! David Woodhouse collected a group of us in his people carrier and we toured the southern half of Mull in search of Sea Eagles, Golden Eagles, otters and more. We saw them all, despite atrocious weather. What a thrill to see these incredible creatures, including Marsh Harriers. Mull really is a wildlife haven and has stunning scenery. I have recorded the day and there will be something for you all to listen to in due course. Thoroughly recommended (not my recording… a visit to Mull!)

Thursday 22nd September 2011 10 miles from Craignure to Salen. Stayed at the Glenforsa Hotel which is built entirely out of Norwegian timber. Very ski-chalet in style and comfortable.

Friday 23rd September 2011 Walked from Salen to Tobermory – a lovely place. My kit was ferried up to the Tobermory Hotel.

Saturday 24th September 2011 Took the ferry from Tobermory back onto the mainland. Then walked 14 miles along some stunning coastline to Glenborrodale where I stayed in a lovely timber cabin in the garden of a B&B.

Sunday 25th September 2011 From Glenborrodale I walked in heavy rain and high winds to Salen for a pub lunch. Then onto Ardshealach Lodge in Acharacle.

Monday 26th September 2011 A fantastic day. Bright with sunny spells. My hosts had suggested I walked along the “silver steps” which run alongside Loch Shiel and Loch Moidart. I spotted a couple of eagles in a tree. Saw deer up very close. Staying in the Glenuig Inn. A great base for walkers and brilliant facilities for outdoor enthusiasts.

Tuesday 27th September 2011 From the Glenuig Inn, I walked in strong winds and rain round the coast road to Lochailort and stayed at the Lochailort Inn. Spent a while in the afternoon watching an otter swimming in Loch Ailort, after which he came ashore and shook himself dry before curling up for a sleep. This is the first time I have seen this “in the field”. Very excited! Approaching Lochailort, I walked alongside the River Ailort – a lovely looking salmon river, but I couldn’t see any fish. At the Lochailort Inn “Rob” played the ‘border pipes’ in the bar (incidentally, to buy a set of these pipes nowadays will set you back a minimum of £2,000 and can be as much as £20,000! Few people make them and I gather there is a long waiting list).

Wednesday 28th September 2011 Walked from Lochailort to Arisaig. 11 miles. Saw an otter, seals and a porpoise. A lovely summer-like day with plenty of sunshine, but I lost my sunglasses. I walked 2 miles back up the road to where I thought I may have dropped them but they weren’t there. They have been with me since the start of the walk! Oh well (sniff!).

Thursday 29th September 2011 Rest day.

Friday 30th September 2011 Along the B8008 coast road and enjoyed the silvery sandy beaches. Such a shame that it was raining, particularly as the southern half of Britain is having a heatwave Indian summer! I stopped off to admire the wonderful sand at Morar, alongside the crystal clear waters of the River Morar. Then along the cycle lane of the A380 into Mallaig, opposite the Isle of Skye. 

Monday 1st August 2011 Rain and drizzle, clearing as the day went by.  Walked 20 miles in all.  Set off from Glenluce, then along the A75 negotiating road works which in fact sent the heavy traffic through in pulses created by temporary traffic lights.  This helped me to walk along a completely clear road with intermittent phases of traffic going past.  Then along the B7084 through Sandhead, Ardwell and finished in Drummore.  Staying at “The Queens Hotel”.

Tuesday 2nd August 2011 Weather was wet first thing.  Walked from Drummore to Mull of Galloway… the southern-most tip of Scotland, where I visited the RSPB centre and lighthouse.  Lots of donations.  Then I retraced my steps before bearing off to Port Logan where I stayed at The Logan Inn who were generous in their support for my walk.  Lovely views.  I could see Northern Ireland clearly.

Wednesday 3rd August 2011 Walked along roads to Portpatrick under sunny skies.  I arrived at “The Waterfront Hotel” and immediately felt at home.  What a lovely place.  Discovered that this week-end was a major fundraiser for the RNLI so decided to hang around for a couple of days and collect donations for Alzheimer Scotland from the crowds as well!

Thursday 4th August – Sunday 7th August 2011 Stayed at the beautiful “Waterside Hotel” and enjoyed the RNLI and Air Sea Rescue fundraising events along with raft races etc…  The collection tin filled up accordingly!

Monday 8th August 2011 After my lovely stay at The Waterfront Hotel, I headed up to Stranraer where I joined the local Rotary Club as the guest of Tom Stephenson and talked about my walk to its members.  My thanks to the Club for its generosity and support.  Then onto the local Alzheimer Scotland office for a photo for the local paper and chat with the office’s staff. 

Tuesday 9th August 2011 I was due to update BBC Radio Solent on my walk at 6.30 this morning.  They called me instead to postpone the interview until tomorrow because of the rioting and looting .  I was met after breakfast by Tom Stephenson and we set off along “his” new path – “The Loch Ryan Coastal Path” which he had helped to create. At lunchtime we were met by a path maintenance volunteer called Alistair and together they went off to work on maintaining the path elsewhere whilst I tucked into my packed lunch, before continuing along the path to Ballantrae. 

Wednesday 10th August 2011 Ballantrae to Girvan (15 miles Satmap).  Despite the weather forecast, the day was mainly dry.  I followed the Ayrshire cast path which basically runs along the A77 with a couple of stretches which run slightly inland.  Used a luggage transfer service today and enjoyed the lighter load on my back. 

Thursday 11th August 2011 6.30 am radio interview with Julian Clegg at BBC Radio Solent.  Then walked in the rain up to “Maidens” where I stayed in the “Malin Court Hotel” who made a generous contribution to my walk.

Friday 12th August 2011 Walked 16.3 miles (Satmap) from Maidens to Ayr.  A little bit of beach walking and then a beautiful section round past “Culzean Castle”.  I had a chat with a guy who was renting a cottage on the shore who told me he had spent the previous evening watching an otter swimming around just off the shore.  In Ayr I stayed at the “Daviot House” B&B. 

Saturday 13th August 2011 Explored the town of Ayr and walked up the River Doon where I met two fishermen, George and Geoff, who had caught a salmon each.

Sunday 14th August 2011 (16.4 miles Satmap) from Ayr to Irvine.  Dry and sunny.  Plenty of beach walking and saw a dead seal pup.  Stayed in an un-manned guest house where access is gained via door codes, money left in an envelope and then posted into a safe box etc…  It worked well! 

Monday 15th August 2011 (11 miles Satmap) from Irvine to Ardrossan.  Stayed at “The Lauriston Hotel” who have made a generous contribution to the walk.  Visited the local Alzheimer Scotland office and met Susan Maxwell and Suzy Ogston who work for the charity.

Tuesday 16th August 2011 Took the ferry over to Brodick on the Isle of Arran.  Very excited to get onto this beautiful island with its rolling southern lowlands and its spectacular northern mountains including Goatfell which is a little short of Munro status.  The stunning “Douglas Hotel” provided me with free accommodation.  

Wednesday 17th August 2011 Walked from Brodick up the east coast of Arran, and steadily fell in love with the place!  I squeezed through the mountains on the northern part of the isle passing rivers and waterfalls to Lochranza and stayed at “The Lochranza Hotel”. 

Thursday 18th August 2011 Took the ferry from Lochranza across to the mainland again and Kintyre.  I met “Caroline and Simon” on the ferry who had been passing me regularly as I had made my way along the coast and had met in Brodick.  They agreed to take my kit to the “Carradale Hotel” so I was able to walk with a lighter load along quiet roads and then a forestry track where I found an adder basking in the sun and also started to attract the attention of the first “proper” midges I had encountered on the walk.

Friday 19th August 2011 Decided to have a rest day and explored Carradale which has three hamlets linked together by tracks. 

Saturday 20th August 2011 After breakfast, I packed up and was told that the hotel’s housekeeper would be glad to drive my kit bag to Campbeltown.  The weather was lovely – sunny with a cool breeze.  This afternoon I saw my first otter on the whole walk.  It was while I was having a tea break in Ardancros Bay.  I spotted him swimming along the shore just beyond the small waves breaking on the beach.  Thrilled!

Sunday 21st August 2011 (15.2 miles Satmap) from Campbeltown to Southend.  Staying at the “Argyll Arms Hotel”.  Lovely to walk some of the way along the shore.  As I head down towards the Mull of Kintyre the area is feeling more and more remote.  No mobile signal anywhere! 

Monday 22nd August 2011 Walked from Southend to the Mull of Kintyre along the road with cars heading for the same destination.  Some of the drivers stopped and placed money in the tin.  At Keil Point I spotted my second otter.  I visited the “Chinook Memorial” dedicated to those who died in a helicopter which crashed into the Mull of Kintyre in 1995.  Then continued down the steep and winding road leading to the lighthouse. At this point, Northern Ireland is only 13 miles away.  On the return leg back to Southend, I received more donations from drivers who had spotted me heading to the Mull of Kintyre, and now saw mr for a second time on my return!  Midges were out and about again but not too bad.

Tuesday 23rd August 2011 Walked from Southend back up to Campbeltown and stayed in the “Argyll Arms Hotel”.  A useful contact in the local area is “Mari Graham” who runs a local luggage transfer service. 

Wednesday 24th August 2011 Walked along the A83 from Campbeltown across Kintyre to its west coast.  A lovely sunny afternoon.  Sandy bays.  Enjoyed watching the mullet cruise around crystal clear pools behind the reefs and rocks.  Arrived at the "Argyll Hotel” in Bellonchantuy which is delightful.  I had a window overlooking the beach towards Islay.  Spectacular thunderstorm and subsequent sunset.

Thursday 25th August 2011 A dry day with sunny periods. Walked from Bellanchantuy to Clachan and staying at “Dunultach” B&B surrounded by bleating sheep.  Lovely views across towards Islay, Jura and Gigha.

Friday 26th August – Monday 29th August 2011 Walked from Clachan to Tarbert, having interviewed my host and his friend about their respective flying careers in helicopters.   Arrived in “Tarbert” and staying at “The Anchor Hotel”.

Tuesday 30th August 2011 Bus from Tarbert to Glasgow.  Visited the Alzheimer Scotland centre at Glasgow and had a chance to meet most of the local Charity team there who are doing incredible work in the local area.

Wednesday 31st August 2011 Train from Glasgow down to London.  I will return to Glasgow on 12th September and continue onto Tarbert on 13th September from where I will continue along the coast until the Scottish winter stops me until the spring!

Thursday 14th July 2011 Took the train from London to Carlisle. Then on to to Glasson on the Solway Coast to spend the evening with Mark Messenger who runs "The Highland Laddie Inn". Highly recommended and serves the freshest possible salmon as they are netted only a few hundred yards from its kitchen and served on the same day whenever possible! We went out "haaf netting" for the salmon and sea trout. Have a listen here to how we got on! I had a wonderful evening with Mark and a couple of other fishermen. We didn't catch anything tonight, but he had three beautiful fish the night before. Well worth booking a fishing experience with him as it is something you will always remember.

Friday 15th July 2011 On up to Gretna across the Scottish border where I had left off on the previous leg. A frustrating day as the path along the shore ran out and the mud defeated me, so I was forced to turn back. Need to get rid of some of my kit as my rucksack is too heavy. Some of the food will be evicted first and picked up later along the coastline when I need it most. Stayed the night in Annan.

Saturday 16th July 2011 Walked from Annan to Glencaple. Booked a hotel tonight and arranged for the contents of my rucksack to be sent ahead. Bliss! I felt like I was walking on air! Crossed the River Annan which was in spate after heavy rain and then back down its other bank to the coast. Had to push my way along the edge of a field of crops. Then across a make-shift log bridge. Through Powfoot and quiet lanes. Weather raining with thunder. Saw a tornado starting to form near me amidst the most incredible black clouds, bu it dissipated before it could get going. Phew! But amazing to watch. Via "Brow Well" where Robbie Burns drank its water. Then into Glencaple on the banks of the River Nith. Stayed at "The Nith Hotel". Sunny evening and a lovely sunset.

Sunday 17th July 2011 Filled in a couple of miles of coastline I had to miss out last night and then spent the rest of the day and evening relaxing at the hotel! Very heavy rain.

Monday 18th July 2011 Walked from Glencaple to Dumfries where I met all of the team at Alzheimer Scotland. Was offered accommodation for the night with Ailsa Black and her partner Alan in Carsethorn. Ailsa works for Alzheimer Scotland and is also an established artist. Alan is also an artist, graphic designer and photographer. So walked the 13 miles from Dumfries to Carsethorn wearing my new Alzheimer Scotland cap and various branding to promote the charity. Ailsa kindly took the contents of my rucksack home with her to speed up my progress over the remaining miles of walking that afternoon. Lots of rain and deep puddles being emptied over me as I walked beside the road! Ailsa and Alan's house is in a delightful spot looking out across the Solway Firth. I decided to offload a few items of kit to lighten the load for this leg of the walk. Ailsa and Alan agreed to store them for me and forward them to me further along the Scottish as and when required.

Tuesday 19th July 2011 A fair bit of road walking (which I think sets the tone for the next few weeks). Saw a bench overlooking a beautiful view around lunchtime... it was in someone's garden. They said I was welcome to eat my lunch there and, what's more, they gave me a donation! A bit of steep coastal path walking late afternoon. Then down into the beautiful seaside village of Rockliffe. Stayed the night as guests of David and Frances Henderson in their beautiful house and enjoyed a lovely dinner.

Thursday 14th July 2011 Took the train from London to Carlisle. Then on to Glasson on the Solway Coast to spend the evening with Mark Messenger who runs "The Highland Laddie Inn". Highly recommended and serves the freshest possible salmon as they are netted only a few hundred yards from its kitchen and served on the same day whenever possible! We went out "haaf netting" for the salmon and sea trout. Have a listen here to how we got on! I had a wonderful evening with Mark and a couple of other fishermen. We didn't catch anything tonight, but he had three beautiful fish the night before. Well worth booking a fishing experience with him as it is something you will always remember.

Friday 15th July 2011 On up to Gretna across the Scottish border where I had left off on the previous leg. A frustrating day as the path along the shore ran out and the mud defeated me, so I was forced to turn back. Need to get rid of some of my kit as my rucksack is too heavy. Some of the food will be evicted first and picked up later along the coastline when I need it most. Stayed the night in Annan.

Saturday 16th July 2011 Walked from Annan to Glencaple. Booked a hotel tonight and arranged for the contents of my rucksack to be sent ahead. Bliss! I felt like I was walking on air! Crossed the River Annan which was in spate after heavy rain and then back down its other bank to the coast. Had to push my way along the edge of a field of crops. Then across a make-shift log bridge. Through Powfoot and quiet lanes. Weather raining with thunder. Saw a tornado starting to form near me amidst the most incredible black clouds, but it dissipated before it could get going. Phew! But amazing to watch. Via "Brow Well" where Robbie Burns drank its water. Then into Glencaple on the banks of the River Nith. Stayed at "The Nith Hotel". Sunny evening and a lovely sunset.

Sunday 17th July 2011 Filled in a couple of miles of coastline I had to miss out last night and then spent the rest of the day and evening relaxing at the hotel! Very heavy rain.

Monday 18th July 2011 Walked from Glencaple to Dumfries where I met all of the team at Alzheimer Scotland. Was offered accommodation for the night with Ailsa Black and her partner Alan in Carsethorn. Ailsa works for Alzheimer Scotland and is also an established artist. Alan is also an artist, graphic designer and photographer. So walked the 13 miles from Dumfries to Carsethorn wearing my new Alzheimer Scotland cap and various branding to promote the charity. Ailsa kindly took the contents of my rucksack home with her to speed up my progress over the remaining miles of walking that afternoon. Lots of rain and deep puddles being emptied over me as I walked beside the road! Ailsa and Alan's house is in a delightful spot looking out across the Solway Firth. I decided to offload a few items of kit to lighten the load for this leg of the walk. Ailsa and Alan agreed to store them for me and forward them to me further along the Scottish as and when required.

Tuesday 19th July 2011 A fair bit of road walking (which I think sets the tone for the next few weeks). Saw a bench overlooking a beautiful view around lunchtime... it was in someone's garden. They said I was welcome to eat my lunch there and, what's more, they gave me a donation! A bit of steep coastal path walking late afternoon. Then down into the beautiful seaside village of Rockliffe. Stayed the night as guests of David and Frances Henderson in their beautiful house and enjoyed a lovely dinner.

Wednesday 20th July 2011 Spent the morning pottering about at David and Frances Henderson’s house. There were a few workmen around the house and Frances had a whip round for the collection box! Then David walked with me to Kippford and the “Solway Yacht Club”. As we walked up to the club house I was piped in by one of its members playing his bagpipes from the balcony. Bagpipes always bring a tear to my eye. What a lovely welcome. I was given lunch and had the opportunity to chat to the members who were interested in finding out more about my walk. After lunch, I was given a send off from the pontoon in a small boat with David and a club member called Julian up “Urr Water” where I was dropped off on a muddy bank at Palnackie. From there I waved them off and headed along the A711 to “Auchencair”. As I plodded along a quiet road leading to Balcary Bay a car driven by a friendly woman pulled up alongside and she asked me about my walk. After a brief conversation she invited me to join her and her husband for dinner at their house further along the road and offered me a bed for the night! Wow! When I arrived at the entrance to their beautiful country house I was taken aback by both its size and the beauty of its extensive grounds. Pieter was mowing the lawns around the house by towing a large set of cutters behind his Land Rover! Over dinner I learnt that Pieter and Sue were farmers whose family had lived in the house for many years and previous generations before them. Pieter’s brother Jamie runs “The Wickerman Festival”… more of that later on! During the night a bat visited me in the bedroom and made regular exploratory sorties in the airspace over my head, but he was gone by the time I woke up in the morning. I am grateful to Pieter and Sue for their welcoming hospitality and generosity in their stunning home.

Thursday 21st July 2011 Today was a lesson in Scottish coastal walking! Having consulted the map and been offered local guidance, I set off along the proposed coastal “path”. After seven tortuous miles hacking my way through jungle, climbing over four stone walls (two covered in barbed wire) I found myself “trapped” by a river valley in the corner of a field planted in head-height crops. It was impossible to continue. Bruised, cut and generally exhausted, I worked my way round the edge of the field and onto a farm track which led me through a network of tracks and lanes until I got to a main road… one mile from my start point five hours earlier! Resting over my packed lunch, I realised that much of the off road coastal walking was going to provide me with days of tortuous progress, and that if I wasn’t careful, would slow down my daily progress to a crawl. I decided that from now on, unless I was completely assured that a “coastal path” really was viable to use, I would stick to the roads. On the way towards Kircudbright I passed “The Wickerman Festival” and decided I would return on Saturday. For the next three nights I would be staying at the lovely “Anchorlee” B&B run by Alistair and Olive Grant.

Friday 22nd July 2011 A rest day. Had a walk round Kirkudbright, admiring its architecture and fleet of four fishing vessels! I spent a good part of the afternoon sleeping, before joining my hosts ad their friends for a drink on their veranda and watching the annual ”Ride of the Marches” going past on the road.

Saturday 23rd July 2011 I spent the afternoon and evening enjoying the music at “The Wickerman Festival”, and managed to grab one of its co-founders “Jamie Gilroy” for a chat. Click here to listen. It is a lovely music festival and well worth a visit. It takes place every August at East Kirkcarswell Farm near Dundrennan in Dumfries and Galloway, and attracts around 20,000 visitors over the week-end.

Sunday 24th August 2011 Having stayed the night in Olive and Alistair’s camper van, I enjoyed a restful Sunday following the festivities the night before!

Monday 25th July 2011 17.4 miles (Satmap!). A fine, sunny day. Left Olive and Alistair Grant’s lovely B&B “Anchorlee” and walked along the banks of the River Dee. Reached “Gatehouse of Fleet” in the evening and stayed at the “Murray Arms Hotel”.

Tuesday 26th July 2011 Walked from “Gatehouse of Fleet” following a track over some quite wild terrain (the first in a while) and then along the route of an old military road across more wild and open hillside. Lots of biting horseflies. Weather very hot. Lovely bridges over streams and small rivers. Late afternoon saw me walking along a very attractive cycle route and I saw my second red squirrel of the entire walk. A lovely landscape opening up. Got to “Creebridge” on the edge of “Newton Stewart” and stayed at the lovely “Creebridge House Hotel”.

Wednesday 27th July 2011 Newton Stewart to Garlieston (18.8 miles – Satmap!). Sunny all day. Down the A714 and then along a B-road through Badroch and then the A746 through Kirkinner to Garlieston, a lovely seaside village basking in sunshine overlooking Garlieston Bay.

Thursday 28th July 2011 Energy low today. Only managed a few miles before I decided to call it a day in “Isle of Whithorn”. Booked a room at the “Steam Packet Inn” and slept for the rest of the day.

Friday 29th July 2011 Isle of Whithorn to Port William. Hot day. More walking along quiet roads. Went via the “Gavin Maxwell” memorial and saw my first otter… albeit a bronze sculpture! Then down and along the beach which was a welcome change of environment fro the tarmac of the road. Once at Monreith, I re-joined the A747 and flew into Port William and checked in at “Hawthorn House” B&B.

Saturday 30th July 2011 I packed up my kith in the morning and was collected by Alan and Ailsa who drove us into Stranraer for the opening of the new day care centre there. John Russell MP was there to lend his support and we had our picture taken for the local paper. I had the honour and pleasure of drawing the tickets for the raffle. From there, I was given a lift back to Port William where they were enjoying a fete.

Sunday 31st July 2011 An overcast and drizzly day. Port William to Glenluce (14.6 miles Satmap) along very quiet roads.

Monday 7th June 2011 I travelled back up to Liverpool by train, and popped in to visit the local branch of Alzheimer’s Society at the Neuro Support Centre in Norton Street. On this leg of the walk, I am carrying a brilliant new piece of recording kit called a “Yellowtec ixm” recording microphone. My thanks to “Preco Broadcast Systems” for supplying this wonderful recorder. Have a listen to my visit.

If you are ever visiting Liverpool, I do recommend you check out "base2stay" as your... erm... base to stay! I enjoyed an evening tour round part of this wonderful city, including three revolutions on the Liverpool 360 which gave magnificent views across the Mersey and surrounding area.

Tuesday 8th June 2011 8.45 am interview with BBC Radio Merseyside outside the Liver Building, followed by another at lunchtime and a final chat in the early evening. Wonderful support from BBC Radio Merseyside who are supporting Alzheimer's Society throughout this year . I passed the Anthony Gormley installation of 100 life-size “iron men” at “Another Place” standing along the shore at Crosby beach. One of them ended up wearing my rucksack and posing for a photo! Eventually made it up to Southport.

Wednesday 8th June 2011 Weather mainly dry with the odd light shower. Walked from Southport to Preston, 20 miles along B-roads, cycle paths and then A-roads. I met a guy who was walking his dog and we had a chat. A couple of hours later, he and a few of his mates were waiting for me in a car park and presented me with a packed lunch especially prepared for me. How kind was that? Later in the day, a man was walking his dog along the busy A565. The dog was completely freaked by my appearance (large rucksack and a pair of walking poles making me resemble a strange animal, I think). I backed off in the hope it would calm the dog down. It didn’t, and in a violent struggle with its owner, the dog slipped its lead and ran out into the traffic. I ran back up the carriageway to slow the traffic down and amazingly, as far as I can gather, the owner retrieved his dog unscathed.

Thursday 9th June 2011 Had a late start this morning. Walked from Preston along the A583 and A584 to Freckleton. I stopped for lunch at “The Ship” in Freckleton which is located at the end of the runway at “Warton Aerodrome”. Owned by BAE, this is where they build the Typhoon fighter, and they were testing one as I ate. Very noisy… very impressive… loved it! Arrived that evening in Lytham St Anne’s.

Friday 10th June 2011 Visited the brilliant Ansdell House Clinic in St Anne’s for a massage and back click where Robert and Andrew worked their magic. From there, I walked in glorious sunshine along the beach to Blackpool. Andrew Ogilvie from the Clinic had spoken to his wife who works for Blackpool Transport and had very kindly fixed me up with a two day complimentary tram pass for Blackpool. Thank you. I had an afternoon stroll around the town and marvelled at the sights and sounds. The plan is to spend a day in Blackpool tomorrow as well.

Saturday 11th June 2011 Spent the day looking round Blackpool. Interviewed a “landau driver”. “A what” I hear you ask. Click here and listen to our conversation!

I also tried to interview a palm reader on one of the piers but red tape and destiny got in the way. Oh well.

Very long queues and waiting times also discouraged me from having a ride on the roller coasters at “Pleasure Beach”. So I returned to my hotel for a rest with the intention of returning later that afternoon when the queues should have shortened, whereupon I promptly fell asleep and woke up after Pleasure Beach had closed!

Sunday 12th June 2011 An easy and relaxed short day. Walked 10 miles from Blackpool to Fleetwood in the rain and found a room at the lovely "North Euston Hotel” – in fact a huge room which had recently been refurbished with a state-of-the-art bathroom with motion sensor-activated LED lighting which never really managed to turn itself off! Lovely view across the sea.

Monday 13th June 2011 Walked 20 miles from Fleetwood to Lancaster. Weather was dry and overcast initially then sunny later with a cool breeze. I left the hotel, and then ran (waddled in fact) back to my room to retrieve my sunglasses with just enough time to catch the ferry for a five minute trip across the River Wyre to Knott End. I had to retrace my steps a couple of times due to land access restrictions. In the end, I decided to walk along the A588 for much of the way although a lack of pavement and verge meant I had to concentrate hard on avoiding the traffic.

Tuesday 14th June 2011 Walked only 10 miles from Lancaster to Morecombe. Lovely to see the Lakeland Fells inland.

Wednesday 15th June 2011 Stayed at “The Clifton Hotel” B&B who gave me a welcome donation. Headed over to the local Alzheimer’s Society centre to meet Claire Campbell and her colleagues. Then onto “Morecambe FC” for a tour of their impressive new ground with Toby Greenwood of the hospitality team. After which I continued through Morecambe and along the edge of Morecambe Bay. Very pretty. Stayed at “The Silverdale Hotel”. Weather warm and sunny.

Thursday 16th June 2011 What a memorable day! Got a lovely donation from “The Silverdale Hotel”. Then worked my way along the shore and road up to Arnside in sunshine. Beautiful scenery – hills, woods and fields and the Cumbrian Fells and Morecambe Bay as a backdrop. The route was going to take me on a 15 mile detour up inland along the River Kent before returning down the far bank to Grange Over Sands. When I got to the railway viaduct at Arnside, I looked longingly at this direct shortcut straight over the river into Grange Over Sands. The viaduct was in the process of being rebuilt by Network Rail, and I passed one of the their site officials in the street. His name was Peter Carlton. I explained what I was doing and how helpful it would have been to be able to walk across the viaduct (although there is no public right of way). Peter listened patiently and sympathetically before explaining very politely that due to the complex work going on, and due to strict Health and Safety regulations, it would not be possible for me to cross. He did say that he would have a word with the office and I gave him my mobile number and we agreed that should there be an opportunity to cross he would call me asap. I set off inland, philosophical and resigned to the long road round to Grange Over Sands. About ten minutes later, my phone rang. It was Peter and his opening words were “I think I am what they probably refer to as your Fairy Godmother…!”

After a safety briefing I donned reflective clothing, a hard hat, steel capped boots and safety glasses. Peter guided me through the working machinery along the viaduct and we had an interesting chat. Once we were clear of the viaduct, Peter escorted me for a further 1.5 miles until we reached the first available exit point off the track, where I handed back the protective gear, and I waved Peter off as he headed back along the 2.5 miles or so of railway track from where we had come. I am so grateful to Network Rail and in particular to Peter for his help and co-operation. They were doing an excellent job along the viaduct and he assured me that service would be resumed along this section of track within a few weeks after the major refurbishment work had been completed within budget and on time!

A short walk from there took me into the town where I stayed the night at “The Grange” hotel. What a fabulous place.

Friday 17th June 2011 I set off from “The Grange” hotel to meet Cedric Robinson MBE who is the official Queen’s Guide across the sands at Morecambe Bay. Click here to hear more. What a lovely and interesting chap, ably supported by his wife, Olive.

Then along more roads slightly inland. I then got permission to cross a large estate and received a donation from the gamekeeper as well. I plodded along the shore, then through fields, a wood and eventually crossed over the Rivers Leven and Rusland Pool. Then along the verge of the A590 for a few miles before peeling off through quieter lanes to Ulverston. All the locals were spruced up for a Friday night out on the town. A couple stopped for a chat and to make a donation. I was saddened to hear that a local chap who was very much a part of the community in Ulverston had been missing for a few days in Bristol. They had just heard that his body had been found in a canal in Bristol. A tragedy for anybody to deal with, and no more so than in such a friendly and close community as Ulverston.

Saturday 18th June 2011 Walked 17 miles from Ulverston to Barrow-in-Furness. Weather was sunny. Lots of walking along the waterline and saw just how fast the tide runs over the sands. 5-6 knots I am sure. Saw a dead seal on the beach, and later a dead baby porpoise or dolphin. Got round into Barrow-in-Furness and walked through the gas installations and past the docks. Stayed at the delightful “Abbey House Hotel” and had the chance to explore their beautiful grounds.

Sunday 19th June 2011 I enjoyed the hospitality at "Abbey House Hotel” so much that I decided to call today a rest day and spent another night there! A great opportunity to rest my legs.

Monday 20th June 2011 Headed down in the morning to Alzheimer’s Society office in the centre of Barrow to have a quick coffee with Chris Parks who works for the Charity. Then 15 miles along the coast in beautiful hot sunshine to “Broughton-in Furness”. Plenty of shoreline walking and lovely inland views towards the Southern Lakes.

Tuesday 21st June 2011 15 miles from Broughton-in-Furness to Annaside in dry weather with sunny spells. Found a dead porpoise on the beach. Despite the assurances from a “local” that Annaside had plenty of accommodation, it turned out that Annaside has two farms… and that’s it. That’s why I carry a tent!

Wednesday 22nd June 2011 Headed up towards Ravenglass. Forded the River Esk to save another lengthy inland detour. If you had been there, you would have delighted at the sounds of “ooh…aaah…ooh…aaah…bloody stones…”… etc…! Stayed the night in Seascale.

Thursday 23rd June 2011 Seascale to Whitehaven. 19 miles. All going well until I reached Sellafield to discover that the footpath was blocked due to construction work with no information nor any attempt to provide a detour. I found an alternative route eventually, thanks to some very local “dog walking” knowledge. Please, please, please, if you are going to block a public footpath at least have the courtesy to provide us with an alternative route. I had lunch sitting on a bench on the platform at Braystones Station watching a tractor fitted with an enormous Geiger counter to check the levels of radiation on the beach. Apparently this tractor, or a similar one was caught out in the tide and a massive recovery operation was required to retrieve it. I opened and closed the two sets of gates allowing vehicular access across the railway track as and when required, and received a few donations in the process!

At St Bees Head I could see the Isle of Man, Northern Ireland and Scotland. The rest of the afternoon was spent walking along a “proper coastline” with some steep sections – the first I had encountered in many weeks of walking. Stayed the night in Newhaven which is the start or finish point of the Coast To Coast cycle route.

Friday 24th June 2011 Weather was cloudy with sunny spells. Walked from Whitehaven to Workington. 8.3 miles – a short day. Some coastal walking but mainly slightly inland roads and paths. Lovely to see the Scottish coastline as I enter Solway Firth. It makes me realise I am making progress! I booked myself in at to my digs and then went to join in the fun at an Alzheimer’s Society tea dance which was full of people singing and dancing along to live music and enjoying tea and cake. A wonderful afternoon. There will be a bit of audio to listen to at some point! Another quick plug for the “Yellowtec ixm” recording microphone… it continues to perform brilliantly and is so easy to use.

Saturday 25th June 2011 Weather was dry initially with showers later. Unloaded my collection tin’s donations into the bank for Alzheimer’s Society, then continued along the beach for much of the way up to the village of Mawbray where I stayed at the Lowther Arms. A very quiet village set in the heart of the farming community.

Sunday 26th June 2011 Weather was dry with some sunshine. Walked along the beach to Silloth on the Solway Firth. Had lunch next to the small harbour at the flour mill. The along the coast with lovely views to Scotland. A fair bit of B-road walking and country lanes to Newton Arlosh.

Monday 27th June 2011 A very warm day spent walking around the edge of Bowness Common on a lane, via Anthorn and Cardurnock with the massive complex of aerials nearby, then Bowness-on-Solway (the start or finish of the Hadrian’s Wall Path) and arrived in Port Carlisle. What lovely places these are, looking out across the Solway Firth. Scotland is now tantalisingly close. Out across the sands I spotted “haaf netters” and I hope to meet these fishermen very soon and will share with you what I learn after spending a couple of hours with them standing in water up to my chest in the Solway Firth, fishing for salmon and sea trout!

I stayed at Hesket House. What a lovely place.

Tuesday 28th June 2011 Walked from Port Carlisle to Carlisle. 15 miles. Sunny day and very hot. In Drumburgh I stopped at an “honesty box” café run by Allen Hodgson. A fantastic idea. I also met a man who was walking the Hadrian’s Wall Path in a skirt (he had lycra shorts underneath). I made it to Carlisle where I spent the night in preparation for my border crossing tomorrow.

Wednesday 29th June 2011 The Day I Crossed The Scottish Border! I followed the River Eden’s bank for a few miles before the path disappeared. Then along the cycle route on quiet roads initially. Then much busier roads.

I was funnelled onto the B7076 which runs adjacent to the A74 and realised that there is no footpath across the border from England into Scotland when following the west coast. The B7076 is it!

There was no pavement and no verge. I am used to walking along busy roads in the face of oncoming traffic, but often there has been a verge to climb onto or a hedge to press my body and rucksack into and reduce the risk of being hit by a lorry. Today there was no such luxury. I recorded an irate piece on my video camera expressing my thoughts on this particular subject which will see the light of day at some point. Assuming that I haven’t missed a sneaky path across the border, I am amazed that a path or pavement hasn’t been built. It is dangerous. It is not the most welcoming way a walker can enter Scotland... or England. It should be sorted out.

As I crossed the border into Scotland at Gretna I was given a hearty and warm welcome from a lady who spotted my collecting tin and immediately made a donation. So the Scottish leg starts. I will resume the walk on Thursday 14th July and will walk non-stop round the coastline of Scotland. Can’t wait… and why not come and join me?!

Tuesday 3rd May 2011 Travelled back up from London to St Dogmaels by train and bus. Stayed at Argo Villa again. The owners, Gill and Antosh Wislocki collected me from Cardigan as I had missed the bus into the village. Spent most of the evening with Cyril Burton – a retired Seine fishermen who used nets and a coracle to catch salmon running up the River Teifi. I have recorded an interview with him and you will be able to listen to it when it has been edited! Simply to say, he is a fascinating and generous man.

Wednesday 4th May 2011 From St Dogmaels to Aberporth. 13.7 miles. Weather sunny and breezy. Started the day with a further visit to Cyril Burton who gave me a couple of salmon and sea trout flies which he had tied for me. He is keen for me to use them in Scotland and I promised him that if I get a chance to have a fish and am successful, I will dedicate the fish to him and send him a photo of my catch! Such is his generosity that, had I not been able to carry it along with my two walking poles, he would have given me one of his beautiful hand-crafted walking sticks to take with me. I hope to return and see him again and fish together.

The new insoles in my walking boots have made my feet sore as they adapt to their new shape. Saw a dolphin! Made it to Aberporth and found a place to stay. Bought a heavy guide book for the Ceredigion coast Path from the Tourist Information Centre in Cardigan, and am excited at the prospect of being able to be chaperoned along another official trail. This is such a beautiful stretch of coast.

Thursday 5th May 2011 14.7 miles. Walked from Aberporth to New Quay. Rain at first and then cleared. Feet continue to be sore. My B&B hosts at Highcliffe Hotel transferred my rucksack contents to my digs in Newport and I am trying to give my feet a chance to recover! Stunning scenery and impressive cliffs.

Friday 6th May 2011 New Quay to Llanrhystud via Aberaeron. 14 miles. Weather sunny with cloud and showers inland. Luggage transfer again today. Feet still sore but slowly getting better. Some more lovely scenery. Met Nigel Nicholas who is in charge of the Ceredigion Coast Path. Stayed at “Sgubor-Wire” in Llanrhystud.

Saturday 7th May 2011 Llanrhystud to Aberyswyth. 10 miles. A few showers. Made it to The Richmond Hotel by 5.00 pm. One of my earliest arrivals ever. Enjoyed the late afternoon by the river. Trying to sort out a way of crossing the River Dovey to avoid a lengthy 30 mile detour along a treacherous main road with no pavement.

Sunday 8th May 2011 Aberystwyth to Twyn. Weather mainly sunny with the odd shower. Having completed the Ceredigion Coast Path, I managed to get a lift across the River Dovey with the rescue boat from the Dovey Yacht Club. The Yacht Club provided me with a warm welcome, tea and lunch and the chance to watch the final laps of the Grand Prix!

Ended the day in Twyn. Too late for dinner anywhere though. That’s when my horded snacks come in handy!

Monday 9th May 2011 A lovely day of scenery looking inland to the mountains of Snowdonia. Walked along well-made paths and some lanes. Crossed the Mawddach Estuary into Barmouth. Found a fabulous B&B with a window overlooking the beach.

Tuesday 10th May 2011 Walked from Barmouth to Harlech. 12.8 miles. Weather was dry except for a shower first thing in the morning. Banked the contents of the collection box for the Charity and therefore lost some weight! Mainly road walking today, including some A-roads. Staying in a B&B in Harlech.

Wednesday 11th May 2011 Weather cloudy with sunny spells. 19.4 miles. Harlech to Criccieth. Exhausted. Mainly road walking so particularly tough on the feet. Saw Snowdon clearly. Went via Portmeirion and was shown round by Glyn Davies. An interview with him may appear on the website later in the year. I met a couple of people today who had previously met me whilst walking round Devon and Cornwall! Also – a rather strange thing - as I walked past a boatyard this afternoon I overheard a very distinctive voice and looked across to see that the person talking (who is equally noteworthy by her appearance) was indeed the same person who had produced a short review of some camping gear on “YouTube”. What are the chances of that?!

I started the Llyn Peninsular Path and have been warned by other walkers that it is poorly way marked and often deviates from its official path. In fact one person I met said she gave up trying to follow it in places as it is virtually impassable in some sections. Just as long as I keep the sea on my left I will be fine!

Thursday 12th May 2011 Weather dry with plenty of sunny spells. Walked from Criccieth to Abersoch. Followed some of the Path but tediously circuitous and often cutting inland and on soft sand! Also impassable on some tidal sections so made progress along A- roads. Realised this morning that the two Welsh flags attached to my rucksack have expired in the windy conditions. The muscles in my feet are very sore. Abersoch is a nice place. Had an Italian dinner. Lots of motor cruisers for sale.

Friday 13th May 2011 Sunny and then some showers at the end of the day. 14.7 miles. Decided to stick to the lanes for most of the day. I enjoyed a long beach section with a bit of a scramble to get back up onto the path. The tide was coming in. I realised I had been followed by a couple of anxious walkers who assumed (incorrectly) that I knew perfectly well that the path left the beach at a specific point and involved a scramble up a low cliff to continue along higher ground! I didn’t, but my trusty “Satmap” did! Earlier in the day I had been forced to turn back when the way mark had sent me away from a farm and through a field of frisky bullocks with no exit! Looking on the map, the path was supposed to run through the farm yard but a bit of DIY signage was discouraging walkers from doing so! Stayed in a huge hotel room in Aberaron directly on the beach and I slept with the window open listening to the waves. Lovely.

Saturday 14th May 2011 Weather mainly dry with periods of rain. Stuck to the lanes for most of the day to avoid further unnecessary diversions and dead-ends. Walked from Aberdaron to Nefyn. Visited a beach known locally as “Whistling Sands”: in dry conditions this particular sand squeaks when you walk on it. Today though, I only managed a “scrunch”!

My feet are still painful, not only from sore spots on my skin but also from the muscle tissue inside the sole. Decided tomorrow (Sunday) shall be a rest day.

Sunday 15th May 2011 Had a rest day at the “Nanhoron Arms Hotel” much to the relief of my feet.

Monday 16th May 2011 Weather cloudy with periods of rain. Walked from Nefyn to Clynnog fawr. Got very frustrated with the path with its confusing route. It led me to a working quarry and then simply left me there with no further signs. I followed the main track through the works with the occasional lorry passing by. As I left the quarry works a van drew up beside me and a very pleasant man explained that there was in fact no public right of way through the quarry. He went on to acknowledge that the route of the path was indeed unclear and that they were trying to get it sorted out with the local council. He took a genuine interest in my walk and departed having made a donation into my collection box! Spent the night at a lovely B&B in Clynnog fawr.

Tuesday 17th May 2011 Weather dry with bright spells. Walked from Clynnog Fawr along lanes and alongside A-roads. Then along the Menai Strait coast with views across the narrow stretch of water towards Anglesey. Arrived in Caernarfon and visited the Tourist Information Centre who gave me details of a place to stay in “Y Fenheli” known as “The Pink Palace”. Whilst in the TIC, a foreign couple were trying to get their travel schedule re-organised. As a result of a misunderstanding with pronunciation, their travel agent had sent them to Caernarfon in North Wales when they had meant to arrive in Carmarthen which is in mid-Wales, some distance away from where they were now.

I had also been spotted by the local firemen who had made a point of stopping and coming into the office to make a donation. There was also the offer a cup of tea at their station should I have needed it. Thank you.

A couple of hours later I settled in at “The Pink Palace” with views across the Menai Strait and took advantage of their laundry facilities!

Wednesday 18th May 2011 Weather dry and cloudy. 17 miles walked from “Y-Felinheli” to “Llanfairfechan” via the first bridge across the Menai Strait onto Anglesey along an “interesting” walkway avoiding the traffic. Then along a short two mile section of the Anglesey Coast to the suspension bridge and back onto the mainland. The water was rushing through the Strait and I watched a high powered motor cruising gunning its engines to make passage under the bridge. Through Bangor, and then along quiet lanes beneath the western fringes of the Snowdonia mountains. Arriving in “Llanfairfechan” I struggled to find a place to stay. According to their websites, a number of local pubs and hotels provided accommodation. The reality was that on arriving there, none of them provided accommodation any more. As I searched for a suitable place to pitch my tent I was directed to a lovely B&B down next to the sea.

Thursday 19th May 2011 Weather was sunny for most of the day. Walked from “Llanfairfechan” to “Llandudno” (18.2 miles). Some A-road walking including some tunnels drilled through mountains! Lovely waterside walk through Conwy’s marinas and Castle. Rounded “Great Orme’s Head” – rugged but with a line of luxury houses with wonderful views over the sea. Completely spoilt for choice with accommodation. Apparently there are around 22,000 beds to stay in here!

Friday 20th May 2011 I was collected at 9.30 am by Sandy Williams and Tracy Stockin of the North Wales Alzheimer’s Society and driven along the coast to Pensarn. I was joined by Andrea Newnham who is the Dementia Support Worker for Denbighshire along with her two dogs. We were also joined by Ron and Hilda Foxall. Ron has been diagnosed with dementia and Hilda cares for him at their home. When we arrived in Rhyl, we were met by Mike Theaker whose wife has dementia and he also looks after her. Eileen Clarke also joined us where we had tea and cakes and a long chat courtesy of the “dementia café service” run by Alzheimer’s Society in Denbighshire. This is based at the Glan Traeth Day Hospital which is an NHS memory assessment clinic. This is also where the Alzheimer’s Society has its Denbighshire office.

It was lovely to meet people involved with the Charity locally and to have their company during the walk. After our time together, Sandy kindly drove me back to Llandudno where I continued along the coast to Colwyn Bay.

Saturday 21st May 2011 Weather dry with showers at the end of the day. From Colwyn Bay I walked back up to Pensarn and then on to Prestatyn. Along the verge of the A548 and ended up at last light staggering up inland to Holywell where I found accommodation in a hotel at the top end of the town.

Sunday 22nd May 2011 At 2.20 this morning some joker set off the fire alarm. After ten minutes of an ear-bursting din, I joined the rest of the guests in the reception area looking bleary-eyed, expecting a member of staff to be switching off the alarm. The only member of staff on the premises was the chef who lived in a flat at the other end of the building and he wasn’t able to help. I rang all the mobile and landline numbers displayed on the reception notice board, leaving messages left, right and centre. Meantime another guest rang the fire brigade who turned up in two rigs. They were unable to switch off the alarm. After an hour of me continuously ringing the “emergency numbers” listed by the hotel, I finally managed to rouse the hotel owner’s son who was on holiday in Cornwall. He made a call and half an hour later a member of staff arrived from the other side of town who was able to switch of the alarm. The fire service weren’t impressed. Neither were the guests!

Later that morning I set off, walking through Flint past its castle and crossed the River Dee, officially leaving Wales and returning to England… Cheshire in fact. By the end of the day my feet simply gave up. I made it to Parkgate and found a room in a great place called The Ship Hotel. Again, my room had superb views across the Dee Estuary.

Monday 23rd May 2011 21 miles. A very windy Wirral day with showers at first but cleared up later. Past Heswell, West Kirby, Hoylake, Wallesey and reached New Brighton with views across the Mersey. The gales had whipped up the sand along the beaches and my legs in shorts were well and truly scoured! Cyclists along the cycle paths were hardly able to make progress into the wind. At least I was walking the other way, being blown along by gusts of 50 and 60 miles per hour! Very excited to be looking across towards Merseyside and at the prospect of taking a ferry across the Mersey tomorrow morning.

Monday 23rd May 2011 I took a ferry across the Mersey which included a short river trip to see some of the sights. What a great city. I am so excited to have reached this far. Took a train back down to London for a few days and will return to Liverpool on Monday 6th June to continue along the coast to reach the Scottish border!

Tuesday 5th April 2011 Took the train from London to Swansea. Then onto a one carriage train to Tenby packed with, I must say, 50 or so very well behaved school kids! That evening I interviewed a local character called David Williams. His remarkable story of how he dealt with losing the use of one side of his body following a stroke will form the basis of a book he is currently writing. It will inspire, and quite possibly amuse us all.

Wednesday 6th April 2011 A beautiful spring day. Walked 22 miles. Left Tenby and set off towards Bosherton. Some beautiful bays, particularly Barafundle Bay. Around Stackpole Head were some incredible features of coastal erosion – deep pits rather like old mines and two arches. Amazing! Saw fulmars, ravens, choughs, peregrine falcons and grey seals. Then past Broad Haven along a vast expanse of deep lily ponds to “St Govan’s County Inn” in Bosherton to the sounds of explosions from the local firing range.

Thursday 7th April 2011 Bosherton to Angle. Distance 18 miles. Weather was sunny and warm. The windows started rattling around 9.00 am when the bombs started going off. I gather from a couple of guests staying at the pub that it is a particularly busy time with the next regiment preparing for its imminent deployment to Afghanistan. Indeed, the morning was spent on local roads as I was diverted away from the coast path by the firing in progress. But the powerful thuds and explosions were felt as I walked along. I tried a short cut but was turned away by MOD guards! Had my lunch on the cliffs overlooking “Freshwater Bay”. The afternoon was spent on some steep and remote sections of path punctuated with stunning bays and coves. Then round into the entrance of Milford Haven. Watched in amazement as six tugs towed, cradled and gently rested like caring mothers a huge ship carrying LNG (Liquefied Natural Gas) alongside one of the harbour’s long jetties. Experts at work. For such a large and important deep water harbour, it isn’t half pretty! Staying at “The Old Point House” right next to the sheltered creek at Angle. What an incredible and historical place. Over a pint I watched the flares illuminating the night sky across the water at one of the refineries.

Friday 8th April 2011 Another clear and hot day. Angle to Neyland – 18.7 miles. Rob Noble who runs the 500 year old Point House has booked me into a B&B in Neyland. He is a great host and very helpful. Started the day along a beautiful wooded section of path by the water. Then out and round the edges of the water past refineries. Got very hot. No hat so… knotted handkerchief time! I simply had not expected this weather at this time of the year. I could smell the refineries which was not particularly pleasant. I stopped off for lunch downwind of a flare and decided I would move on to another spot because of the smell. Found an abandoned and recycled chair left strategically in a shady spot for my lunch. Very comfortable. Spent the afternoon winding my way round promontories. In the evening I crossed the A477 toll bridge and into my digs at Neyland Court B&B run by Geoff & Sarah Browning. A beautiful room and luxurious ensuite! Bliss! Dinner at the yacht club.

Saturday 9th April 2011 Neyland to Dale. 17.6 miles. Weather mainly sunny with cloud later. Went through Milford Haven and then headed out towards the entrance of the harbour. I needed to cross a set of stepping stones at Sandy Haven at the right state of the tide and managed to do so, and then a tidal footbridge at Pickleridge. Managed that too. A wave of panic had swept over me to cross the final tidal test resulting in me covering 5 ½ miles in just over an hour – evidently for no reason as the tide was still well away from covering the bridge! Anyway, I collapsed on a grass bank and polished off my tea and biscuits as a reward! Then to Spinnaker’s Rest B&B in Dale and dinner at “The Griffin Pub”.

Sunday 10th April 2011 Dale to Broad Haven via St Anne’s Head. 20 miles. Sunny weather and a long hard day. Felt run down and pretty tired as my body continued its adjustment from desk to path! Beautiful weather and lovely scenery. Just feeling really drained. Stayed at “Atlantic View” B&B.

Monday 11th April 2011 Despite rain being forecast, it had blown over by the time I started walking to Solva, about 13 miles away. I ended up walking in glorious sunshine and a stiff breeze. To avoid the need for another knotted handkerchief moment I popped into a Londis store and bought a cap… which I lost somewhere on the coast path at the end of the day! As I loitered round a bench stripping off layers of clothing I didn’t need to wear, a succession of walkers stopped for a chat and before I knew it I must have collected over £30 in the tin! In the evening I rounded the headland at the entrance to Solva Harbour and found my bed for the night at “Felingog” B&B located above “ThirtyFive” (café) in the village. I was grateful to have the opportunity of washing my clothes.

Tuesday 12th April 2011 Solva to Whitesands Bay. 13 miles. Although lovely and sunny, I was feeling really under the weather. At the end of the day I reached the beautiful arc of Whitesands Bay and turned inland to find the hotel which had been booked for me. I was going to collapse for 24 hours to give my body a chance to recharge it. I was running a temperature and realised that this was the reason I was feeling drained of energy! A van pulled up and offered me a lift up which I gladly accepted. I spent the night and all of the next day in a beautiful room at “Warpool Court Hotel” which has some of the finest views of the Pembrokeshire Coast.

Wednesday 13th April 2011 (Outside my bedroom window a gale blew accompanied by torrential rain! Perfect timing!) Breakfast… sleep…dinner…sleep! Just what was needed.

Thursday 14th April 2011 I left the hotel feeling a bit fresher, and the rain had stopped! Had a look round the cathedral in St David’s and then took a circuitous route back down to Whitesands Bay where I rejoined the coast path towards Trefin, 14 miles away. A few ups and downs which drew on my limited energy reserves! Stayed at “Brygarw Guesthouse” in Trefin and had dinner at “The Ship Inn”. Decided to use the excellent luggage transfer services provided by “walkalongway.com” run by Colin Porter from now until the end of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

Friday 15th April 2011 Walked from Trefan to Goodwick (Fishguard) via Strumble Head (18 miles). Much easier without the rucksack… enjoy the facility whilst I can! Still feeling drained. Booked all remaining accommodation for this leg of the walk and luggage transfers. Bliss! Weather was cloudy but no rain. Great scenery and wildlife including more grey seals. Stayed at “Fern Villa” B&B.

Saturday 16th April 2011 Goodwick to Newport (Parrog). 13 miles. Misty and cloudy at first and sunny later. Walked along the well laid path around Fishguard Harbour and watched a ferry arrive from Ireland. Went up and round Dinas Head which was impressive and covered in cloud which cleared away to reveal the sun. Then round some steep, sheer and overhanging cliffs. Very impressive. Then into Newport (Parrog) where I stayed at The Bryn B&B.

Sunday 17th April 2011 My last day on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. Glorious weather and a knotted handkerchief day! The most beautiful stretch of path from Newport to St Dogmaels. Lots of ups and downs and remoteness and signs warning me as such! Met a chap called Simon Hickey who is walking all 15 National Trails for charity. Good luck to you too sir! Saw around 30 seals lying on a beach near Cemaes Head. Lots of birds. Arrived in beautiful St Dogmaels in the early evening and posed next to the Start/Finish marker. Stayed the night in “Argo Villa”. This section of the walk complete! Now back to London until 3rd May 2011.

Tuesday 1st March 2011 Wendy collected me from the B&B and drove me all the way back to Gorseinon where I passed through a few days earlier with her. Pulling up at the regional Alzheimer's Society centre, I was met by ‘welcome' banners, bunting and welsh dragons... and a line of happy smiling faces. Stiff upper lip time... I failed miserably. Today I met just a few of the people who work so hard and with such compassion to help support those with Alzheimer's, and those who care for them. I interviewed some of the carers, I listened to their lives, their experiences, their guilt, their fears, their loneliness and their love for the person they cared for. As I sat talking to them, I realised that they all shared the same feelings. It wasn't until they had the opportunity to sit and talk to other people in the same situation that they began to realise that they really weren't on their own. Quite simply, amongst its many roles, Alzheimer's Society does a brilliant job in helping to support and bring carers together so they can ultimately support one another through sharing experiences and all the complicated emotions that go with that role. I left the office feeling charged with energy and humbled by what I had shared with the supporters of the Charity. Thank you to everyone at the centre for making my visit so special.

Wendy was again at the wheel driving me back to Ferryside. We arrived at 2.55 pm to find the crew members of the inshore rescue boat getting the RIB ready. They insisted that Wendy came along for the ride, and so we set off, closely monitoring the depth of the channel using the onboard navigation equipment. The channels move and change on a daily basis such is the nature of mud, sand, strong river current, tides and storms. As we occasionally planed and often idled our way round the point to Laugharne, I appreciated how tricky it must be to operate boats and rescue people along these shores. Most call outs are to people running aground, or getting cut off by the tide, and sometimes getting sucked into the mud. I am full of admiration for these rescue boast crews. Landing in the shallow water alongside the low sea wall at Laugharne, I was given a fireman's lift onto the shore. I waved farewell to the crew and Wendy, and watched them pick their way through the labyrinth of channels back towards Ferryside. I was in Dylan Thomas's village.

Wednesday 2nd March 2011 I had stayed the night in a lovely B&B at the top of the village and the owners made a donation to the charity and provided me with a huge packed lunch. I detoured via Dylan Thomas's shed which was perched on the edge of a cliff with outstanding views across the River Taf and the sea beyond. Through its window can be seen his writing desk and various items of furniture, just as it would have been in his day. Further along is the house where he lived for several years with his wife and children. It is here in Laugharne that he was inspired to write "Under Milk Wood". Then back on the path (in fact roads) as I was diverted inland by an extensive firing range behind Pendine Sands, the scene of numerous historical land speed reckons - a stretch of long flat sand over which the speeding wheels of cars driven by Sir Malcolm Campbell rolled. Broadway, Pendine and then along some steep paths, the likes of which I had not seen for many miles. It signified a change in the scenery and perhaps tougher going. Into Amroth - the start of the 186 mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path. A National Trail. An acorn way marked trail. A guide book complete with directions, maps and narrative. 30,000 feet of ascent. Joy! Lots of chats and donations. As the day closed I came up to Wiseman's Bridge Inn;. Perched right on the edge of the sea, the occasional wave sent spray misting against my room's window. What a fantastic setting. Becca, Lauren, Jack and Graeme looked after me well. Thank you all for your donation.

Thursday 3rd March 2011 A bright and sunny day. Spring is definitely in the air. From Wiseman's Bridge I plodded through Saundersfoot and into Tenby. Philippa came down from London to join me for her birthday week-end and we settled into a friend's cottage for a long week-end to celebrate her birthday. Then back up to London for a couple more weeks of work!

Follow my progress…

Monday 21st February 2011 I took the train back down from London to Bridgend and was collected by Norma Morgan who took me to her house where I unloaded most of the contents of my rucksack before driving down to Ogmore-by-Sea where we had our photo taken for the local paper in heavy rain! I then continued up the Ogmore River (Afon Ogwr) and attempted a crossing of the stepping stones at Ogmore Castle, but turned back half way across as the water was simply too high! I stopped off in the church at Merthyr Mawr and have to say that this beautiful little hamlet made quite an impact. What a hidden gem. My earlier photographic shoot was followed by a telephone interview with the newspaper’s journalist. As the light faded I made my way along sand dunes which I am told are used by the Welsh rugby squad as part of their training regime, and then along the beach to Newton. Andrew Morgan collected me and I spent a very comfortable night in their lovely home back in Bridgend.

Tuesday 22nd February 2011 I was joined by Gerryn Roderick who works for the local Alzheimer’s support centre in Bridgend. We were dropped off in Newton by Andrew and continued along the coast in dry but cloudy weather, through Porthcawl then along Kenfig Burrows and Margam Sands. The chimneys and industrial works of Port Talbot loomed closer and before long they diverted us inland following a cycle route past the steelworks and housing estates, before returning us back to the beach at Aberavon. Norma collected us and returned us to their home. That evening I chatted with her to find out more about her involvement with Alzheimer’s Society.

Wednesday 23rd February 2011 I had an early morning telephone interview on BBC Radio Solents’s Breakfast Show with Julian Clegg, and then after breakfast Gerryn Roderick dropped me off in Port Talbot. In heavy rain I crossed the River Neath (Afon Nedd) and Crymlyn Burrows (big sand dunes!) into Swansea and around its new marina complex. Continuing round Swansea Bay, the going was flat and easy going. I made it up to the pier and was collected by Val Walker of Alzheimer’s Society local support centre based in Gorseinon. I stayed in Val’s beautiful cottage in Mumbles and spent an enjoyable evening talking about her work with the Charity.

Thursday 24th February 2011 Val dropped me off at the Pier in Mumbles and I set off to enjoy the first day on Gower. Rugged cliffs and inland the occasional view of hills and mountains through the mist and rain. Long beaches, firm sand and a couple of small rivers to cross. Friendly chats and donations. At one of the river crossings, a girl out jogging stopped for a chat and asked me where I was staying. That evening she greeted me at the Oxwich Bay Hotel where she worked. She served me a delicious meal and made a donation. How brilliant is that! I love Gower!

Friday 25th February 2011 Wet. Rain. Mist. That’s the way it stayed all day! I sheltered in a café at Port Eynon for a free cup of coffee followed by an unnecessary scramble out of Port Eynon on a steep section of path at Port Eynon Point. Met a guy who had been having coffee at the Oxwich Bay Hotel. Two greyhounds were with him. His “short dog walk” from Oxwich Bay to Overton and back must have been over 11 miles! I had lunch in the rain but this presented no problem for my Paramo clothing which seems to keep me dry and comfortable even in atrocious conditions like today. Got to “Worm's Head” in the gloom and had thought that there might have been a clear path for me to take out across the foreboding “Devil’s Causeway” when the tide was out There isn’t! Just a mile or so of jagged, slippery rocks. So I stayed on the mainland and thought about the man who had recently died there when he was caught out by the tide whilst trying to get back onto the mainland after exploring the Causeway. I continued round to Rhossili and found a room at “Worm’s Head Hotel”.

Saturday 26th February 2011 Decided to start using more features on my Satmap. Today I walked 12.8 miles. Time moving was 5.50 hours. Average moving speed 2.1 mph! I was late in leaving Rhossili, partly due to the interest in my walk by hotel guests and I finally got going at 10.30 am. I walked north along the west side of Gower in glorious sunshine and for the first time I was actually able to see my beautiful surroundings properly. Some small pine copses, marshland and sandy beaches were the order of the day. Found a pub in Llanmadoc for lunch. As I walked in with a Welsh flag attached to my rucksack, Wales were kicking off against Italy. I got a cheer and we settled down to watch the rugby. After my soup and roll, much to everyone’s amazement, I saddled up and continued walking at half time! Wales won apparently. I continued along muddy paths and in the mid-afternoon met a rambling group who stopped for a chat. One man in particular, Dennis Gilbert, stood out from the crowd. He has walked every National Trail in the British Isles at least once. His passion for walking was matched by his generosity to my cause. Thank you sir for your donation… I finished the day in Llanrhidian at the North Gower Hotel.

Sunday 27th February 2011 Distance walked 21 miles. I was joined by Wendy Leslie of Alzheimer’s Society who was dropped off by her husband Andrew. A talented photographer, Andrew took our picture before we set off. We walked from LLanrhidian round to Lougher where we crossed the River Loughor and officially left Gower. Then we walked round past Llanelli to near Pwll where we met up with Andy for hot chocolate and cake! After saying our goodbyes, I plodded on to Pembrey in the dark under a beautiful night sky complete with a gliding satellite. Picking my way across a golf course I eventually found the Ashburnham Hotel.

Monday 28th February 2011 Distance walked 21 miles. A sunny day with a chilly wind at times. From Pembrey I passed through Kidwelly and onto Ferryside. I stopped off for a chat with the crew of the Ferryside inshore rescue boat who offered me a lift across the River Towy… and across the River Taf as well, tomorrow at 3.00 pm… conditions permitting. Before I could accept their offer of a lift however, I had to walk on up to Carmarthen. “I will be back tomorrow at 3.00 pm” I told them. I had another appointment to keep in the meantime. That evening I staggered into Carmarthen. A phone call from Wendy Lesley brought welcome news that she had managed to find me B&B accommodation at a moment’s notice and that the B&B owner was on her way to pick me up! Furthermore, the owner, Anne Lewis of "Llety'r Haul", was determined not to charge me for the room.