Philip Williams   Writer & video biographer
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Monday 27th May 2013

27/5/2013

 
The final day of this leg of the walk and a lovely sunny one at that. The view from my breakfast table this morning across Robin Hood Bay with the North Yorkshire Moors in the distance was stunning. 
I followed another disused rail track which paralleled the coast, but slightly inland, through dappled sunlight. It was beautiful. Then I rejoined the Cleveland Way for the last few miles into Scarborough. The seafront along North Bay and South Bay was very busy as families enjoyed the glorious weather. I found a lovely place to stay with a window looking out across the sea. Down to London tomorrow.

Sunday 26th May 2013

26/5/2013

 
This morning I walked along the beach to Whitby in hot sunshine. Whitby was busy and seemed a lively, friendly place. Then along the coast following the Cleveland Way through some very steep descents and ascents as the path crossed the valleys. I arrived in the village of Robin Hood's Bay which is charming. Then along the path again to Ravenscar. Lots of donations and chats along the way.

Saturday 25th May 2013

25/5/2013

 
I woke up to the most stunning day. Blue sky and no wind. I set off along the Cleveland Way, running right next to spectacular cliffs which were hundreds of feet high, and riddled with landslides. I passed through Skinningrove and descended, open-mouthed into Staithes. I recognised it from photos and TV programmes. What a stunning village, set in a steep valley with a small harbour. Then onto Runswick Sands. The Cleveland Way signpost sent me down a very steep lane to the shore at the bottom as the route of the path was along the beach. The tide was at its highest point. I stood and watched as a group of three walkers, who had been caught out by the tide and waves, staggered onto the rocks where I was standing. They were soaked to the skin. I decided to save myself a waist-height wade and returned up the very steep hill and followed a disused rail track in a circuitous arc to my B&B in Sandsend. I had the most delicious dinner at Estbeck House restaurant.

Friday 24th May 2013

24/5/2013

 
This morning I walked along a path called the Teeside Way. It even had a fancy signpost. It is in fact a few miles of unused, overgrown, cable-theft-ridden dumping ground. It passed through the heart of Middlesborough's industrial zone; and although I find the factories, pipes and steam-spewing outlet valves along the route quite interesting (it is after all part of the local area's heritage) I suggest you don't bother walking it (if you can manage to get through) unless what I have described is what you really want to experience in a walk.

At one point there was a 100 metre jet of steam rocketing out across the path from a factory. But as I approached it the steam shut off giving me time to march through that section of path. Moments later it roared up again.

Apart from the mess left behind by the cable thieves, the only evidence that anyone had gone through there was a recent trail left by a bike.

I felt like hugging the first person I met when I climbed out of the mess that currently is the Teeside Way. 

I then walked along a very pleasant cycle/footpath on the water's edge. Very windy! Past Redcar I stopped for a shore-side lunch in a cafe, and then onwards to Saltburn by Sea which is a lovely place. I stayed at The Spa Hotel who gave me a free meal and converted the heavy coins in the collection tin into lighter-weight notes.

Thursday 23rd May 2013

23/5/2013

 
I walked down to West View Lodge where I was met by cheering people waving balloons and banners. The photographer from the local paper was there as well. Then inside to more greetings, tea, chats and a tour of the home. This was rounded off by a hugely generous donation. Then from Hartlepool I walked along a cycle track, stopping off at a cafe for scampi and chips! Then came arguably the most horrible and dangerous section of the entire walk to date - the verge of the A178 - as there was no other way of walking into Middlesborough. I have got used to walking on busy roads but there has always been some way of keeping off the road. Here on this stretch of road however, the verges were bordered by densely overgrown spikey bushes and trees making it impossible to keep myself and my rucksack clear of the passing traffic. It was a busy time on the road and there were lorries passing every few seconds. In the end I had to spot the next available resting place further along the verge, wait a few minutes for a rare gap in the traffic and then leg it to the relative haven of a recess. Horrible. Dangerous. No thanks! I made it to the transporter bridge and was given a free lift over the River Tees into Middlesborough.

Wednesday 22nd May 2013

22/5/2013

 
I had breakfast from a box in my hotel room! Then headed to the beach at Sunderland again and followed the County Durham Coast Path through Seaham and into the outskirts of Hartlepool for the night.

Tuesday 21st May 2013

21/5/2013

 
I had stayed the night in South Shields, and headed up in the morning to The Lodge nursing home at the other end of town and spent time with the staff and residents there. After which I walked over to Sunderland and visited Victoria Lodge who greeted me with banners and flags, all of which had been made by the residents and staff. It was another special visit and they had all gone to so much effort to make my visit memorable. I had some lovely chats with the residents and an early supper there too! Thank you all. I then received a call from Peter Berry of the Sunderland Echo who came up to the home, collected me, and took me back down to the beach to take some photos. He then dropped me off at a local hotel for the night.

Monday 20th May 2013

20/5/2013

 
I walked up to Rosemount Nursing Home and spent a lovely morning with the staff and residents. They held a raffle for me and presented me with a lovely donation. I was really, really touched. From there I walked through Tynemouth and took the ferry from North Shields over to South Shields where I struggled to find accommodation but succeeded eventually!

Sunday 19th May 2013

19/5/2013

 
Bacon rolls for breakfast at Vicki and Allen's. Vicki had washed my clothes overnight so I was fresh and fragrant this morning! Vicki walked down with me to the nursing home. Then I followed the coast from Blyth, past a D-Day landing re-enactment involving tanks, soldiers, machine guns and some massive 'bangs' to Seaton Sluice where I had a pub lunch of scampi and chips before continuing to Whitley Bay where I stayed at the Oak Tree Lodge B&B run by Sonia and Andrew Birds. I counted out the contents of my charity collection tin and converted coins into notes. Much lighter! Then enjoyed an Indian dinner.

Saturday 18th May 2013

18/5/2013

 
I had spent yesterday evening with some great local people who were well connected with the local media. Through their contacts I was set up for an interview on BBC Radio Newcastle with Sue Sweeney with whom I  did a telephone interview this morning. Then I was collected by one of the people I met last night at the Sun Inn called Martin Kitching who is a local wildlife guide and photography tutor. He runs Northern Experience Wildlife Tours and took me back to Cresswell. I had the pleasure of walking with him down to Newbiggin. Along the way Martin told me about the local history and wildlife, pointing out so many places and creatures and plants which I would have passed by without taking an interest. Brilliant! Thank you Martin. I was also able to interview him as we went along.  He then delivered me to the door of Jason Thompson who has a programme on Radio Northumberland. Jason made me lunch and then interviewed me for the station. From there, I followed the road into Blyth where I was joined by a couple of the staff and residents of Durban House nursing home for the remaining  half-mile to the home where I received a wonderful welcome. The manager, Vicki Rees and her husband Alan put me up in their spare room for the night. We had a lovely time together. Thank you!

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